20V quads on 16V head

[DRFTR86]

I can't see the pics, can anyone in admin or mattysshop repost the pics as I'm about to do this and going to use this as a guide

[electric mic]

yeah that would be great! im really keen to see how this goes. it looks like a good mod to me

Pics please :2thumbs:

[Matt-AE86]

I recently installed my AE111 quads onto my standard 85-87 96kw Bigport. First note. Adapters that have the quad's the right way up, not fun. So much interfearence with the fuel rail and tps on the water inlet so I had to use the Tvis plate, gutted and sealed to space it from the fuel rail, then luckly i used a FWD water inlet, lopped the sensor bit off and now it clears just.

I first set it up to run on the Standard ecu, does this fine. Runs a little rich on some cruising parameters, idles well and the idle isnt rich, at WOT its fuel mixture is spot on. Used an adjustable ecu and its not as good as it needs tuning and this ecu supplies little features. Sometimes likes to idle, other times doesnt.

I find that it has increased the engines capabilities some what, and has opened the top end up a huge ammount. all in all, its well worth the mooooooooneeeeey.

[electric mic]

So its a noticiable difference then? I was looking at this an alternative to 20v power initially. How much (ballpark) did it cost you to set up matt?

[Matt-AE86]

Throttles:
Well, I had a BT 20v sitting on stand, so I used the AE111 Throttles. You can find AE101 throttles for around 250 these days.

Adaptor plate:
I messaged a few people around about for an adaptor plate and found rare item from brad here on the forums, looked to be customer milled up possibly in japan. I got that for $250. Usually people sell there T3 ones for around $350 and I think to get one new ends up being $500~ from the states. Now from experience the T3 adaptor would work best. Mine keeps the throttles around the correct way BUT the TPS fowled on the Water intake at the front of the head and also the throttle linkage fowlled on the Fuel rail.

I used a gutted TVIS plate to push it forward and it cleared nicely and I also chopped the water temp gauge sensor of my water intake and had this filled. With the TVIS adaptor, It has actually cause some type of 'Smallport' reaction I would think also not matching my AE111 throttles to the manifold, It has possibly created 2 areas for turbulance and interfearence, which I think is another possibility for crap idle.

Note: I wanted to try and run the TVIS on the motor but I couldn't do it due to things interfearing, even with a 2nd TVIS as a spacer ie; working TVIS + spacer (gutted TVIS) + quad adpater.. Things got in the way, modification and grinding would have been needed, but It runs really quite well like this and is still good down low, suprisingly for a bigtop. (Also still running a 3.9 Final Gear!)

ECU:
I used the standard ecu at first. This runs good at WOT cruising at 1500-3000rpm it can start climbing to be rich. Idle for me is abit rough but varies and I think this has more to do with tuning the quads to having the same air intake etc. Note: BT throttles and I think possibly ST ones, have an Idle adjustment. probably best to turn these all back till they are tight and turn them up in equal lengths.

MAP:
At the moment I have the map sensor reading of Cyl. 2 & 3. I've done a bit of research into this and found a guy in japan that was playing around with it alot, have all cyls coming into 1 vacumm pot then off to sensor, then grouped, then 2 lines into pot than into sensor, then some all 4 grouped then straight to the sensor and some gave rough idle and he found a nice setup but still changed it around to meet conditions I think.

Also run your Air intake sensor. Unbolt this from your manifold, plug it in, and have it close near the throttles. Temps vary from 25-35degC. Run the rear water temp sensor aswell. Make sure your O2 sensor is connected etc.

TPS:
You will need to have a 100kw TPS plug as the 20v one only has 3 wires and 16v uses all 4. You then need to reverse the wiring as the 20v throttles run backwards. This plays a big role I found as well and keeping the engine running smooth and detects the throttle, assists the MAP sensor some what.

FPR (Fuel pressure reg) + Brake booster:
These both run of Cyl 4. Seems to be fine, braking feels a bit funny, but you can feel its just lost a tad bit of assistance.

So really your looking at around $600-$900 to run quads on a standard ecu. It also depends if you search for cheap buys or want to just go and buy it.

Then you have;

Velocity stacks.
I got some from a plate over east (I'm in WA) some 50mm ones which are roughly $120~ a set inc postage. I found some in Aust that are specific to AE101 or AE111 but they were $250 a set. I am yet to put these on but at the moment using some AE101 trumpets bolted on by 1 hole, these helped the engine run a bit smoother as well.

Filters:
These can vary in price and be purchased from same place you get your Velocity Stacks/Trumpets.

Any other questions you have, I will try my best to answer. I might put some diagrams up on how to run the MAP sensor etc and some video footage.

This was a good way to waste 30mins at work

EDIT!: A video that I promised.

[253_rolla]

you are a mad man MATTY! Cool viedo BTW.

So is your 4a-ge stock?? and are you still running stock ECU??

[Matt-AE86]

It's a Standard Kouki 96kw Motor (Bigport with 7Rib block, Standard) It seems to be in really good condition and still holds GREAT/AWESOME compression and yer I went back to using standard ecu cause it was better than my adjustable hahaha.. still runs good though

[mc68]

you are a superstar matt

[253_rolla]

MATTY: How would a standard ecu better than a aftermarket one's??...So just 100% standaed ecu??..i mean like no other piggybacks?

[Matt-AE86]

An aftermarket ecu is always going to be better, just the one I was using didnt offer enough as it was a very budget ecu, but worked well for standard motor and turbo, I just didnt find it good to drive daily, once it was driving it was fine, but didnt want to idle and a few things, ignition was strange.