Looks perfect. You have done well. Only thing to keep an eye is that your dizy is on number 1 cylinder and it will run like a champion.
Cheers
Todd
I just want to double check that I have set up the timing belt correctly.
The notch in the cam drive belt lines up with the oil dimple. (TDC)
The intake cam dimple lines up with the timing belt cover line.
And the exhaust dimple lines up with the timing belt cover line. With this one, when I sent the cams away to be made adjustable, the second notch on the cam wile was removed only leaving 1 position for it, so after counting original cam wheels I found it was so many teeth away from the original timing tooth
Also, this is the big port non oil squirt gze block (aw11) so when the pulley is attached the grove on the wheel lines up with the bolt on the tensioner
Looks perfect. You have done well. Only thing to keep an eye is that your dizy is on number 1 cylinder and it will run like a champion.
Cheers
Todd
sweet
im going to add to a quick tek article on this as there is very limted info on it
Just one thing that you can add to your tech article when you do it is the correct way to tension the timing belt. It looks straight forward but there are a few tricks that I learn a few yea ago when I was a mechanic at a Toyota dealer.
Once you have timed the engine loosen of the adjusting idler and let it find its own postion and lock it up again. Then turn the engine over but turning the nut on the crank in a clockwise rotation only. Never turn backwards on any engine especially one that has a timing chain. Anyway turn the motor over until you find that there is the most resistance to turning. This would be when one of the cylinders is on its compression cycle. Hold the tention on the spanner/breaker bar that you have on the crank and undo the idler bolt and it will once again find it's correct adjustment. Tighten it up while still holding tention on the breaker bar. The belt is at the correct tention. Not to tight and not to loose. Never lever the belt adjusting idler as is dosen't need to be this tight.
One more thing always check your ignition timing after a belt change or retention as it will have changed.
Hope this helps
Todd
good info!
I recall the shop manual gives the length of the spring when the tension is correct. . The other check is to make sure the longest unsupported part of the belt can be turned about 90 degress. if you can hardly twist it at all, its too tight.
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