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Thread: 1 stop diff info

  1. #51
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hen is a total nutcase @ Feb 1 2008, 10:17 AM) </div>bzzztt wrong most if not all axle are FORGED not CAST then heat-treated to different hardnesses depending what part of axle for example, the flange where the wheel bolts on is softer than the section of axle where the wheel bearing fits. This means you can weld the flange if you want to change stud patterns but you must let it cool slowly, where as if you weld the axle where the bearing is located or in the spline area the metal will crystallize and the axle will break in that area. I`m not bein a smartarse just sharing some knowlege, hope this helps boys .

  2. #52
    Senior Member sr_rolla's Avatar
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    ra60 axles are stronger as they have less steps down than the t18 axle and the thickest part is longer, ra60 diffs are 1415mm long, they do fit in a ke70 but are mounted slightly more rearward due to different mts and the top 4 link mts are either 15mms narrower or 15mm further apart, i forget which.

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    Senior Member eightsixboy's Avatar
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    What ratio is a t series from a t-18?

  4. #54
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    this link was posted half a dozen posts up the page
    it contains the answer to your question

    3.909:1

    or:

    # 41201-29406 3.308 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29287 3.583 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29227 3.727 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29237 3.909 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29197 4.100 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29207 4.300 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29626 4.556 final gear ratio
    # 41201-29637 4.778 final gear ratio

  5. #55

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sr_rolla @ Mar 4 2008, 04:20 AM) </div>Quite possibly. Except that wont make any difference to them breaking. They always break at the end of the splines coming out of the diff centre. And since RA60 and T18 splines are the same then they will break equally easily.

  6. #56
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shelldrake @ Mar 23 2008, 12:16 AM) </div>
    Got some "HACKED" link when i clicked that.

  7. #57
    riojin
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    hmm youre right. well he took down a harmless and very helpful page there. bastard.

    what has to modified to fit a RA60 diff in an ae86?

  8. #58
    Senior Member sr_rolla's Avatar
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    u may need an adjustable panard bar. other than that it will fit but its not the best fit, when the car is lowered the pinion angle is wrong, the diff sits to far back, the top mounts are 15mm further apart so its a bitch to get the top links in (unless u have rosejointed arms) and its a few mm's longer.

    but, u get bigger brakes, i havent tried but i think u should be able to pick up the length difference by machining the step on the drum face, there easier to get than T18 diffs, they have the same swaybar mounts as a ke70 and i could b wrong here but i think the auto 1 has 4.1 ratios

    this is the same between ra40 & ra60, can't be sure about the ratio tho

  9. #59
    Senior Member Sprinterboy's Avatar
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    Zenki T-series axles are 23mm.

    Kouki T-series are 24.5mm

    Correct?

    Anybody got pics to SHOW the difference? I'll take one of my Kouki Axle tomorrow night and post it here.

  10. #60
    Senior Member eightsixboy's Avatar
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    I bought a t series from ajps a couple of months ago with a 4.1 centre and when i went to put in my axles i found that the rhs bearing would seize. I thought it might be because it had to be shave more but it had already been shaved. It turned out that the splines wern't long enough, i have to file a ridge were the plines start, it was fine after that but i have always wondered why, i mean people say you only have to shave 5mm or so of the top of the axle and nothing have been mentioned about the splines bottoming out. I replcaed the bearings on both axles to, and the lhs is fine, but if you try to put the lhs axle in the rhs its the same problem.

    I would like to get to the bottom of this before i put my lsd and new gearing in, so i know everything is all good.

    I was thinking that maybe the rhs axle is different, from maybe a ra60 or something? but they measured the same from bearing to start of the splines. so yeah has got me stumped.

    Another thing is that the centre obviously didn't come from the diff, as one bolt is way longer than the others and the casing for the centre is for normal length bolts.

    Any ideas guys?

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