[attachment=5301:attachment]i've decided to do a tech article on this as i'm recieving a few pm's on how to do it. i didn't buy the parts they came out of a car i already owned so i can't give an accurate estimate as to how much this would cost you.
you will require the following parts
s13 front coilovers
ae86 camber tops
s13 front brakes complete with hub arrangement can use CA or SR
RA60 series rackends
pair of rack boots
Bluebird TRX tierod ends. (model 910, series 1, 2 or 3)
8 nissan mag wheel nuts (as wheel studs have different thread)
installation is self explanitory pull your old s*** out, installation is the opposite. fit the 86 cambertops to the s13 coilover and fit to strut towers. redrill the crossmember hole that the LCA bolts to, to 13mm size as the sprinter LCA bolt is smaller in diameter. the LCA can move around if the bolt doesn't "fill" the crush tube in the bush. so i highly recommend you use the S13 bolt and drill the mount hole on the crossmember out, it's piss easy anyway.
fit up the lower control arm, and bolt on the hub complete with brakes, then bolt the hub to the coilovers.
you must change the rack ends to *A6* series ones (MA61, RA60, SA63 etc) or not enough thread goes into the tierod, effectively decreasing its strength quite dramatically EDIT: after wheel alignment this wasn't as bad as first expected. you can use the 86 tierod ends but the taper is slightly different so there will be play = noise. *A6* series and RA40 tierod ends are the ones to use.
installing the new rack ends is easy enough, remove your old rack boots and bend back the locking tabs where the rack joins the rackends. undo the 86 ones and replace with th *A6* ones. i used loctite on the threads as i damaged my lock washers so couldn't refit them.
fit up some new rack boots (FYI i used repco universal rack boots didn't have to trim them or anything and they were $14 ea) thread your tierods on as far as they will go, bolt them up to your steering arm on the hub.
you will have to redrill the holes for castor rods if you use a S13 arm, not a big deal though. just line the castor rod up with the arm mark your holes and drill away.
by now everything should be about right, use the s13 brake hoses they will thread into the 86 solid line fine. if you choose to run CA brakes you can keep the stock 86 13/16ths master cylinder and you are restricted to a rim size of no less than 14 inches. if you want to run SR brakes you are limited to 15 inch wheels and need to upgrade to a 15/16ths master cylinder, you can use S13, R32,33 or 34 abs masters (abs masters only have 2 ports) you will have to change solid brake lines to suit this master. bleed it all throw some rims on using nissan wheel nuts as the thread is different to toyota, and drop it. set your heights (if adjustable height coilovers are used) and get a wheel alignment.
you have gained
front height adjustablity
more steering lock
bigger vented brakes
track increase (est 20-30mm per side)
it's a cost efective option if you don't mind going nissan, i feel a lot of hachi drivers are purists though and like to stick with the toyota bloodline. so you don't see it done that often.
picture below shows camber set to max, using a 15x8-4mm superlite rim, guards needed to be flared and max camber applied to fit rim under guard, car is lower then a normal sprinter though so less camber could be run at a higher ride height.