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Thread: Biggo's bagel as Carina!

  1. #91
    Veteran R&D Mechanical's Avatar
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    Davey & Riki-lee
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    Fucking good job man! Time for new rotors.
    R&D Mechanical, Seaford SA - please visit www.rdmechanicalshop.com
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  2. #92
    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    they will be fine after 5 mins in bed with me
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
    89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus

    Quote Originally Posted by joeschmo_57 View Post
    I tried to sell my virginity yesterday in a pub. Shame it was second hand anyway

  3. #93
    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    sussy is wack. but at least it is part of a very strong diff and drive shafts.

    broken cars suck, and all our cars handle shit anyway..
    78's

  4. #94
    Veteran driftke70's Avatar
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    plus once its low and stiff not that much matters unless your sliding over 80 clicks, little rear toe never killed anyone.
    wheelfriends.wordpress.com

  5. #95
    Senior Member xsoarerx's Avatar
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    lol i had something like 12deg of rear toe to match the -4.5 deg of camber... Sweet!

    you can buy all the replacement bush's for the rear end (MA61 is what to look under) if you can be bothered to change them... droping the rear end is like moving a fridge....










    but heaver!~

  6. #96
    E-Famous (Remeber your roots)
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    Rear end owns. Same as mine by the looks?

    Coming along nicely! I can't wait to see more of this.

    marvis.

  7. #97
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    Like yo work.. A lot.

    Just wanted to ask about how you did the rust repair on the guards. Before welding in the new metail did you lip the gaurd edge so they overlapped? Or how did you do it? About to do it on mine..

    Peas

  8. #98
    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    yes and no, the top 2 squares are just sitting there welded on. the long edges of the other 2 have lips on them, basically just make the peice a lil longer and grab some thick plate, hacksaw a line like 10-15mm and use that a lipping tool. once you got it like 90* degress you can just hammer it under and it will sort it self out. Worked beaut on the boot lid too.

    RE the rear end - its the same as MA61/xZ20/RA65 etc etc etc
    Ive had a look at it, will leave it till im done with the body but really theres not alot you can do, fair sure commo offset bushes are a bigger diameter so that wont work. old dattos use a weld on mount kit, its far to funky for me to deal with tho.

    And john - that f series diff i have is like the weight of a t50! only smaller hehehehe
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
    89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus

    Quote Originally Posted by joeschmo_57 View Post
    I tried to sell my virginity yesterday in a pub. Shame it was second hand anyway

  9. #99
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    Cheers mate. Unstood it all except the 90 degree part.

    If it is a Z20 etc rear end jump onto supraforums.com.au or the likes some guy in NZ makes a bushing kit. Factory LSD!? Miss my MZ21

    Edit: it's not a Z20 rear end as there double wishbone from memory.
    MA71 = MZ20
    MA61 = MZ10 maybe!?
    Not sure if that guy made *A61 bushes..
    Last edited by biGtai; 28th April 2009 at 08:19 PM.

  10. #100
    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    The 90 degree part - once the lip is bent that much with the lip tool you can then just hit the lip with a hammer. The tool is used to keep the same amount of lip all the way along.
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
    89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus

    Quote Originally Posted by joeschmo_57 View Post
    I tried to sell my virginity yesterday in a pub. Shame it was second hand anyway

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