alright sweet thanx. so do you replace the arms that go from the bottom of the diff to the car or are all replaced? are they adjustable?
just heard about 4-links today. all i know is that they are to do with your diff and they make your wheels spin easier. dont really know though. could someone plz tell me how it works, why you want one and where i can get one or how to make one (im pretty handy with the fabricatings bro).
thanx
alright sweet thanx. so do you replace the arms that go from the bottom of the diff to the car or are all replaced? are they adjustable?
Yeah, they do come adjustable, and also rose-jointed seems to be very populer with these. Mabye if you just wanted a cheap upgrade you could replace the bushes in the standard ones,
They range from price from $100 to $1000.
Or.... you could just buy traction brackets.
ROB-AE86: you are correct in saying that the tailshaft goes down when you lower a car, and therin lies the problem. because the tailshaft goes down, the whole diff is on a lean towards the front of the car. as such, power does not go directly to the ground in the way in which it's supposed to.
When the diff is on a lean, peak force is no longer placed where it should be, i.e. on the contact patch between tyre and road, it is placed just after the contact patch. because of this you are correct in saying that it wil bog down easier, although i havent had a direct before-after experience in one car.
What traction brackets do is change that angle back to normal. they are mounted to your upper trailing arms (don't remeber on which end, it's been a while since i helped swap diffs, but im pretty sure they mount onto the diff and bolt onto the arms) and return the peak point of force back to where it was at standard (optimal).
Yr 11 physics y0!
These will probably be cheaper than adjustable trailing arms.
Javal.
You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?
if your car is going to be a bit of an all rounder than yeah look into one of the options posted above (traction brackets, new bushes) but if it will be just for drifting and it will be staying NA, i really recomend a four link.
it lets you adjust how the diff sits, by shortening the top arms and lengthening the bottom ones it points the front of the housing down which will make your car more tail happy, adjust it the opposite and it will grip like crazy.
also make sure you get a set that have rose link ends, ive heard some nasty shit about the ball joint ones.
free ajps plug
there called trailing arms on his site by tune adgent for 595,
the ones in the pic are actually my T3 set that are in my car now.
somethings not quite right here. what javal sais is that the diff leans forward (ie. the front of the diff goes down yes?) so it bogs down (what i understand by bogging down is that you lose power and just slow down). but ae86slide is saying that when the diff is at that same angle it makes it more tail happy (ie it rips it up easier yes?). so from what i have gathered by the idea that you shorten the uppers and lengthen the lowers (which is making it the same as lowering the car) is that i should leave my car the way it is so that it rips it up easier cause its NA.
i will be putting 4 link im my new ae71
thanks for the plug man!
so is there anyone who can safely tell me its worth the money?
your car will be worth $5000 then
Forgrt the bit about the diff "bogging down", go by what AE86 slide said. when you lower a car with a stock 4 link, then because the top arms are shorter, the pinion angle points to the ground. When you get an adjustable 4 link, you can either bring the pinion angle up level, or point it down furthur, or even point it up toward the car, for some reason.
when you level the pinion angle, it returns the static suspension geometry to where it should be, and improves traction. The same thing can be said for traction brackets, but traction brackets are not as adjustable. PS, traction brackets go on the BOTTOM diff mount, to level the lower links, not the top link as stated above.
The best thing, is to change the stock unequal 4 link system for an equal length adjustable 4 link rear end, where all 4 trailing arms are the same length, so that as the diff travels through its suspension limits, the geometry changes as little as possible. This requires a bit of surgery on the car though, and it will most likely become a 2 seater because of this, so if you are going to this extent then you may as well also go for a watts link on the rear of the diff instead of the panhard rod, giving a completely adjustable roll centre etc.
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