cool, cheers Oly, given me something to think about in terms of the sandwich plate...
Yea, I started with said "China Kit", many different brands out there, some with different color anodized adapters, all the same stuff from same factory. Kit I used had -10 fitting on the cooler block, then -8 on the cooler!
I ended up buying used Trust 13 row Thermostatic item from Gilly, its not filter relocation model but quality is better and piece of mind is nice. Just recently I moved position of the cooler and because the Trust kit uses "Earls" fittings, I was able to goto Autobarn Capalaba and get new 120 degree "Red Horse" fitting (same thread and design as earls) for $40 bucks. Carefully cut down the line and installed new fitting.
Note about the 20V adapter block. I was using it on my GZE block because it made the cooler plate easy to install, but made the filter sit VERY close to the Turbo. I have since removed the 20V adapter and used the std 16V threaded bold to secure the filter. I had to change the setup of the sensors (factory oil press, autometer oil temp & press) and oil path and then grind a very small amount off the engine mount, but now its all in there very snug.
cool, cheers Oly, given me something to think about in terms of the sandwich plate...
------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------
BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:
I run a B&M 19 row cooler, HKS sandwich plate, with some decent braided line and fittings, cost me about 500 bucks all up.. should do the trick.
DTF - Danzo Technical Factory
Can anyone help me. I'm about to install an oil cooler kit with the filter relocation. And I'm wondering if u are supposed to leave the original sandwich plate from the 4age and then screw your sandwich plate to that or do I get rid of the standard one? If u do get rid of it what fitting do u use to go into the black??
I run the same kit as oly on my 16V. Trust non-relo kit.
Took less than 30mins to put in, inc. making the brackets, and I didnt see oil temps over 80-odd degrees out on the track. Im also using a TRD 2 core copper radiator, I never worry about temps now.
Member of the Cable-Tie Cartel.
hey touge boy. can u answe rmy question at all?
Alrighty... im assuming you have a kit like so?
The plate on the right screws to the block where the filter sat before. Mount the plate on the left (Filter relocation) onto the strut tower or similar. One hose goes to this. Then it feeds to the cooler. Then out of the cooler back into the plate screwed onto the block.
If you're running a factory style oil cooler like I was, then remove everything, and block off the original fittings inc. the sump return.
Also, Mount the relocation plate so the filter is actually upside down/screws up INTO the plate. Means when you change the filter you dont have oil going everywhere.
Did that answer your question?
Member of the Cable-Tie Cartel.
i knew how to run it. im asking where the filter usually screws onto. do you remove the standard oil filter plate or just leave it in place?
am i correct in saying the lines can be ran in the wrong direction through the filter??
I hoped this would have answered your question.\
If you have a full kit like in the pic I posted, remove EVERYTHING else. It will replace everything.
The lines CAN be run the wrong way... but it should be pretty easy to nut out from looking at the inside of the block attatchment which way the oil goes.
Oil enters from the outer hole, goes through the filter and then returns through the centre hole. So if you have a kit like above, the fitting on the outer edge will lead to the filter block, then go from there to the cooler, and then return into the block via the centre fitting.
That help?
I had one on mine. Replaced it with the trust kit.
Member of the Cable-Tie Cartel.
Yeh I have everything removed but I don't have a fitting to go into the block and new plate. The fitting I had into the other filter plate I had makes it too long.