check for air leaks after the AFM and also check that engine is getting fuel and spark
Hey,
what i got: adm sprinter, jdm 4age/ecu, ae82 loom
just got to the point where i can run the motor to test everything and so far no good, first the fuel pump relay didnt work as planned so ive just hard wired it to keep testing...will fix after....now i got it starting but wont hold idle, just keeps dying after a few seconds...
the last couple attemps it ran for a good 10sec i think, sounded awful like it was barely keeping itself alive and just bout to stall...until it did stall...
can anyone help gettin it to run ? the only hope i have is to run it as much as i can to try and see if it start to idle (the trend is going that way at the moment that it just needs to run in...??)
it ran for upto 10sec once which makes me think that its wired ok, any ideas, any checks i can do to rule any problems out ? better yet any guru's in adel. willing to give up an afternoon to get it running ???
cheers
damo
check for air leaks after the AFM and also check that engine is getting fuel and spark
using a ae82 intank fuel pump and have hardwired to 12V so its pumping (and tested its pumping...), ive assumed spark/fuel as it fired up for a few seconds...? so that means its sparked fuel i guess ? would spark/fuel stop after crank for any reason ?
i wont be back at the car till tommorow arvo so any ideas ill give a go, ill check spark on each plug and see if i can see inj firing ... (how u check if they firing...??)
can you give us some more info? so does it splutter? check your ignitino timing just to make sure its somewhere near 10 DBTD, also check for vacume leeks like has been said, another thing to check is all your ignition wiring, im not exactly sure how its setup on 4ages, but just make sure everything is secure and all your grounds are in good order
good luck
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- Blaise Pascal
sounds earth related, try pulling the cap off your dizzy from your coil and hold it a small gap from some metal part, crank the car see if its sparking nicely, try pulling spark plug caps off each cyl to see if it makes a difference to the sound of the engine running. But sounds earth and timing related.
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to check injection pulse you can used a noid light or a multi-meter to see if the injectors are getting powered.
also did you put oil in the motor? silly question, but people forget!
Is it hunting ?
If you hold the throttle open can you last more than 10 seconds ieoes the problems only relate to idle?
I agree its either earthing out (spark related) or not getting fuel.
Need more description.
this happened to mine when i attempted to start it a few days ago, fresh after the conversion. would run like a bag of shit until stalling.
was timing related, dizzy was out a tooth.
take off your oil cap and look at the camshaft, turn the motor over by hand until you see a little tic-tac shape (ghey description i know) indent in the body of the cam (not the lobe ) when you can see this marking through the cam cover, stop, as you are now at cylinder 1 TDC (top dead centre)
remove your dizzy cap and ensure the rotor button is pointing to number 1, it might not be spot on but it should be very close to the number 1 dizzy post.
if its a fair way forward or backwards then the timing is out, and you'll need to pull the dizzy out to set it up properly. if its only slightly out loosen the 2 bolts and move the dizzy housing either way and see if it helps you.
if you do have to pull the dizzy out you just line the rotor up with number 1 and put it back in, easy.
hope that makes some sense. i'll get some pics if i remember later.
i'd try this first as its the easiest and less time consuming test. then look to your other options.
to check if you have TDC on your dizzy.. line up all the marks to get the motor on TDC as david said..
pull your dizzy out, and line up the 2 marks.. one is on the gear, and the other on the housing just above the gear, these are setup to compensate the helical cut gear, and rotate to it's correct position when installed.. you will see the 2 dents when you pull it out..
could also be TPS.. loosen your tps with the 2 philly screws and try turning it while it's running for those 10 secs..
you can even disconnect the TPS and try running it without..
ok so now the dizzy is better alligned and it runs ....well better, it stays alive BUT it appears to be only running on 1 cyl. -> no.2
only this extractor pipe is heating up, and when i remove the 2nd lead it wont run at all...
so what could be causing my the other 3cylinders to not fire ? valves/injectors ?? how can i test/tell the difference, or how can i find the problem if its a diff one ???
also tried minus tps, but it done nothing still ran on what appears to be a single cylinder...
any help would be great want this puppy running im so close now !
cheers
damo