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Thread: Engine conversion 4ac - 4afe

  1. #1
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    Hello,
    I've been offered a 4afe for a damn good price it'g got way less k's than my current engine
    I've been looking for threads talking about this conversion but I haven't been able to find anything except the usual 4ac to 4ag(z/t)e conversion.
    Is there a reason for this will a 4afe be a decent conversion or will it not work.
    I'm under the impression the 4afe is just a more economical (therefore less powerful) brother to the 4age. But the enigine has had a fair bit of work done to it including head work etc. The car it is in craps all over my crappy 4ac.

    Do I just basically go off the 4age conversion advice or is it totally different
    any help will be appreciated.

    Leigh

  2. #2
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    the 4afe has the dizzy on the back of the head like the 20v
    the factory 4afe rev limit is 6200

    dont think the 4age exhaust manifold would bolt up?
    intake needs to be cut and shut
    not sure if they have the same engine mount places as the 4age or 4ac

    but they can be maded to have nice power tho
    30kw club

  3. #3
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    do a 4age conversion

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    well I'm getting it for next to nothing so I'm thinking if it is possible I'll go with it but 6200!!! that isn't too good might have to go for a ride in the car before he pulls it out and see how it goes I've only ever seen him drive past but I know it's a pretty fast car.

    Leigh

  5. #5
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    Meh, jsut do it. If it's cheap and modded, go for it!
    Has the same engine mounts. All 4a blocks are more or less the same.
    Not sure about the exhaust, but intake manifold will be easy enough cut and shut (jsut like 4age) and then get someone to do some extractors.
    What sort of car is it in atm??

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    they have about 70ish kw depending on what model.. the dizzy and rear coolant housing will give you dramas, and you will need to have some significant changed there.. either distributorless ignition (DLI) or hammer a hole in the firewall.. the housing for the temp sensors is a little easier.. just need someone to machine a new housing..

    you will need to get a header plate laser cut, and have a set of extractors made for you.. as was mentioned the block mounts are the same.. they are pretty much a 4ac bottom end with 4 fly cuts in the pistons for the 16V head..

    the F in the engine code means that it's a twin-cam head, designed for economy and drivability purposes.. power was the last thing on thier mind.. they are decent in low down/mid range power and torque..

    IMO unless you have very very good contacts for electronics and wiring etc and a engineering place, i would stay clear you will end up spending more.. and have much much less fun than a tired 4age from an AE82 seca....

    you'd pretty much have the same power if you stick a cam and a bigger carb on the 4AC.. it would rev more..

  7. #7
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    Cheers for the advise
    Well I'll keep researching
    It's from a corolla hatch I think a seca but not possitive I think he's got more than 100kws from the engine though it's had heaps of head work plus cams not sure what else I 'll find out more concrete details
    I'm guessing I'll be getting all wiring computer etc etc with the engine better check that out
    now to find someone who knows auto electronics!!!!!
    Leigh
    oh and why the engineer?

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    fot the rear thermo housing.. can machine a billet block out with the galleries you need

  9. #9
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    how much would that set me back?
    And Where can I find out about DLI?
    cause I looked at the engine and the dizy sits way way out the back and I don't want to chop my fire wall
    Leigh

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    speak to Ant or Dimitri (anthony and slydar) from Kaizen Garage, about the DLi, they may be able to help out about the water outlet, but i'll see what i can do with it anyway.. i have a 4afe ae93.. so i can crack it off and mesure it up

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