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Thread: s13 handling parts advice...

  1. #11
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    ha ha i am being lazy ...sanders car is at the panel shop, has been for 9 months. to busy to research.. and sort the bullshit from non on ns.com

    i know sway bars,ect
    i assumed rear toe rods, adj. camber arms. + hicas lock.

    wasnt to sure of the limitations of adjustability in the front.

    so was hoping to hear someone say something like "yes that sounds good for the rear, front is good so maybe just chase some extra lock"

    or "no, thats all wrong chase up .............."

    so far i will stick to what i had originally planned, rear swaybar (gtr sounds good, cheers ke70dave), tune agent toe rods, camber arms, some hicas bar, front strut brace.

    but with these $100 track days it isnt as big a loss to figure out for myself.

    thanks heaps for all the help fellas.

    tye

  2. #12
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    front castor rods ?
    ..cant you already pump a solid amount of castor out of factory, just maybe noltec bushes ? ?

  3. #13
    Veteran Beau's Avatar
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    s13's stock have shit loads of lock!

    Just a word of warning Ty upgrade the front sway bars when you do the front. in MY experience stiffening the rear sway bar can sometimes put way to much pressure on the front yes of course the normal outcome is oversteer but it can also create higher speeds understeer, the trueno suffered this for a bit before i figured out i need to up the front sway bar.

    One thing you might want to look at mate if you go really low is RCA's

  4. #14
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    sweet as.

    yeah that makes alot of sense ..... actually had a front one already sussed !
    but cheers man.

    and na keeping it kinda legal + running 15's so need a bit of height wound out.

  5. #15
    Senior Member wideslider's Avatar
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    Hey dude,

    I had every adjustable arm and brace on my 180 and it was ok but
    then I drove a S13 with HSD's, pillow ball caster rods, alloy steering spacer and rear upper arms and it was the easiest car I have ever slid. I dislike rosejoints unless purely a track car as the park, the pass and mt keira are rough roads and I kept flogging them out on mine.

  6. #16
    Veteran driftke70's Avatar
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    quality rose joints wont flog out,

    have seen rose joints on suspension members of 3 tonne trophy trucks look brand new going from one side of the baja to the other.
    wheelfriends.wordpress.com

  7. #17
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    hey benny (wideslider) ...its Tye from stanwell.

    so thats your 86 i seen drivin round the uni, looks amazing mate.
    yeah cheers for the advice, i know you know your shit !

    so can you give me a bit more info on exactly what this thing had ?

    cheers man

    tye
    sounds perfect on a uni budget ....

  8. #18
    Senior Member FLCL's Avatar
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    On a tight budget... then try get everything 2nd hand from either people who have failed projects or crashed s13's which they are trying to salvage cash from. Thats how I built my suspension on my first s13.

    *you can jsut get away with whiteline castor rod bushes for slight adjustment but theres so much china around these days you can pickup adjustable ones for just as or sheaper then the bushes
    *sway bars and strut braces i reckon are a must.
    *other then that coilovers. dont really trust these to be 2nd hand or cheap as you get what you pay for.
    *hicas...not all s13's came with it so not really much issue. but if you do have it just disconnect the hydraulic lines and block them off. no need for a lock bar if cash is that tight.
    *camber tops. another viable option instead of them are (unsure if still made) whiteline camber bolts. an opliptical bolt which you swap out 1 front shock bolt for.
    *dont forget that cos you chose Nissan a lot of parts are interchangable. Ie rear 5 stud hubs, r33gtr 32 300zx cefiro laurel etc brakes and rotors. some r32 rear subframe bits. this makes 2nd hand shopping much easier and cheaper.

  9. #19
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    ^^ crystal tail lights i like that

    i'm pretty happy with what you can get for nissans, it's just a question of whats good and whats not really (brands)

    at present i have

    coilovers front and rear
    camber tops
    longer LCA (S14)
    rose joint castor rods
    front and rear strut brace
    hicas lock bar

    not related really but lucky to have S14 5 stud upgrade with bigger the bigger s14 brakes
    Work Meister 18x10 +30's all round with 235/40's (mint fitment for rolled guards)

    rear end is stock, OEM bushed cradle, camber toe and whatever the other arm is. i will lock the cradle via ally bushes. pretty happy with the camber etc at present height so i don't really need adjustable arms (add to that the wheels won't fit with less camber) if anything i would get poly bush replacements but probably won't bother.

    as much as they get hated they are a good package

  10. #20
    breno
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    did you buy Nathan's 180 gilly?

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