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Thread: Aae86

  1. #101
    Veteran johl's Avatar
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    not sure what you ment in the first line? you mean if i cut it atleast there is some room for travel? and that i wont be able to go lower as the new gap will be used in spring travel?

    in all honesty i dont care too much about this shell as i can get another one for less than a grand and put all my bits in that one, and make it look like what i want unlike this car. if it wasnt all painted already i would be welding new rear guards and would be running all factory bars with a lip, but because of these flairs that are on it i think it used to look funny with no body kit.
    but its not as though im trying to missile it and smash it up.

    i have not really looked into getting the diff shortened because im sure im looking at 500-1000 and i dont really think its worth it. for that money i could sell my wheels and buy new watanabes or meisters which would solve all my problems.

    i am taking the car to brett (purple wide sr hachi) house to do some work on it very soon and im pretty sure he still has templates for his rear guards. so if it comes down to it i could cut them off and use the templates to weld new guards on. but then i have to paint it again...


    in all honesty im sure it will stay as is until atleast i have the engine running and can see the finish line, then i can take it for a bit of a drive and see how we go.
    the things you learn along the way i wish i knew when i had started... probably would have just bought one already done lol
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

  2. #102
    Veteran johl's Avatar
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    been slack as lately. had a baby so that is my excuse.

    got some small parts that i really wanted but didnt really need. but they were all for a really good price so couldnt say no

    3 inch cat
    ajps rose jointed lca's
    jdi steering arms





    i was installing the lca's and steering arms but then rain was being blown into my garage so i flagged it. pretty sure i need to heat up the arms or get them pressed onto the ball joint as they were being a c*nt.

    so now for the steering all i need is some good tie rod ends so they will reach the new steering arms, then that is complete. so many more things to go.


    anyone want to buy my old p/s arms and xt130 lca's?
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

  3. #103
    Veteran Bustin_86's Avatar
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    Hows fatherhood Johl? My young bloke loves chilling in the shed whilst I work on the 86 - I'm sure yours will too soon!!!

    Nice bits, LCAs look trick as! Strange that your steering arms wont go on, when i put my T3 ones on recently they slid straight down! Maybe you could use a pulley puller but in reverse to get them on?

    Have you seen the megan racing tie rod ends sleeka spares sells on ebay? Im thinking of grabbing some. There adjustable so might suit your purpose?

  4. #104
    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    what lips are they? what is your set up? wheel width, offset, and diff width? origin bolt ons are pretty massive, maybe those will go over? or you could get a set and then make them wider? then get them painted up nice and bolt them on (over the cut away existing fender lip).
    78's

  5. #105
    Veteran johl's Avatar
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    Yeh Justin its pretty good hey. Really love it. I'l have to check out those Megan racing ones. I was looking at Ueo but $$$.

    Dimitri- I'm not sure but my rear flairs feel very solid for fibre glass. I'm not sure where they came for but they definitely seem reinforced. Wheel specs at the rear are 15x10.25-51 and yr22 diff. To sit good I would need to lose 20mm off the diff or offset. I could have tried swapping outer lips from front to rear and that should lose some offset and width of the rear but add it to thefront which is already getting close to too much.

    I may be able to get Brett matingley's spare arches he made up and fit them but I think it's just a template so i would still need to roll it. How much would you charge to put metal ones back on the rear d?
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

  6. #106
    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    ok. another suggestion then. put the front wheels/lips on the back, have new (smaller) lips made for the front? its only about $300 a pair.

    i dont really want to build lips for wheels that big. everything i do is based on taking something from a donor and then fitting that to the hachi body. nothing ive done before would really cover those. cant really think of anything with a flare that big.

    you dont want to run bolt ons? a custom set of those would be the easiest way to go.
    78's

  7. #107
    Senior Member orange32's Avatar
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    I just thought I'd update this thread. The project is still moving, Johl is on deployment for 6 months or so, so while he's away I'm getting all his fab work done.

    The 4agte idea was scrapped and sold off after I had an unfortunate crash in my silvia and parted what was salvageable. I sold the motor package to Johl. Anyway, basically it's a built ca18 with a lot of goodies (tomei 2L stroker, hks cams, big sump etc.), I'll write out a spec list of everything once its running.

    My friend Brett makes engine mounts for ca18 into 86, so I towed the car over to his place and we got to work.















    It was a bit of a pain in the arse getting it in, had to beat the firewall to get the dump to clear and had to grind a little bit of the crossmember due to the larger sump. We used cortina 6cyl mounts. I can dig up the part number if it will help anyone. Also had to cut the trans tunnel because the shifter sits further back.

    I've started on the exhaust. We've decided that the car wont be registered so its going to be 3" straight through with 2x2.5" pipes from the diff to the rear bar. I've never done an exhaust before so It's taking a while, making sure it sits as high as possible without touching the body. My welds aren't amazing but they are getting better. I'm only fusing them with a little filler when needed.







    I'm also going to make a radiator header tank using the top radiator hose. The throttle body is too close to the radiator outlet so I'm going to weld some pipe around the cooler pipe and to a tank attached to the strut top and then another outlet to the block with a rad cap on top. I bought the aluminium yesterday so I'll start maching everything at work and weld it up. I'll take some pics once its done.

    I'm open to constructive criticism and new ideas.
    Last edited by orange32; 14th April 2012 at 10:45 PM.

  8. #108
    Senior Member orange32's Avatar
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    So I've finished the header tank, not completely happy with my welding but i'm pretty new to aluminum.



    Also made a turbo drain from some stainless pipe. Its a bigger diameter than the stock drain so it should be fine



    Ive also done some more on the exhaust, I just need to make the hangers and weld in a straight section, then do the twins out the back.

  9. #109
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    Not all that happy to see this thing rocking a nissan engine...but thank god it's not an sr20 and it's something special...2L CA would be sick if it holds together...we all know they hate bearings lol

  10. #110
    Veteran shift_rook's Avatar
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    Yeah good to see plenty of progress, when's ETA on it being driven/vids?

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