i dont think the factory rev limit is 9.5k thats huge. u would need a bit of work or some laughin gas to get 200hp i think stock would be about 120 hp 130 mayb.
wat is the factory rev limit on these and would it be much work to get it to say 9500rpm and around 200hp cheers rich
i dont think the factory rev limit is 9.5k thats huge. u would need a bit of work or some laughin gas to get 200hp i think stock would be about 120 hp 130 mayb.
stock 160hp
rev limit 7500rpm
there is a thread in motorsport section about this type of thing worth the read.
I am guessing the computers rev limit on the AE111 is about 8000rpm but I don't know. Ask someone with a AE111 ECU to floor it.
Without the rev limiter, it will rev harder of course. It may even get to 9000. But I have heard alot of people say they distroy bearings or conrods fairly fast over 8500rpm.
To build a engine to rev to 9500rpm, you want aftermarked con-rods. Upgraded conrod bolts at the very least. Probably lightened forged pistons. And the whole bottom end has to be ballanced very well. Mostly a job for a race engine builder. But not too hard, its worth a try. Buy some very good digital scales, and get all the pistons and rods to weight the same by grinding small bits off. The crank has to be pollished, then balanced. Flywheel has be to ballanced while bolted to the crank.
Camshafts should have a duration of about 300 degrees, may need to experiment. Stiffer valve springs. Lobe centers around 100-105 degrees.
Simple on paper, but getting 200hp will cost a bit of money in the end. And 3S-GE starts to look better.
heres what I think it would take to get it to 9500 (stock is usually 8000)
aftermarket rods
aftermarket pistons
race prepared crank
long duration cams
checked oil pump
reduction drive on the water pump
aftermarket valves
aftermarket valve springs
aftermarket bearings
deburred block
and multiple other things...
30kw club
yup ur right again sam lol, as for the other things, they include valve spring retainers, more oil pressure, solid buckets, timing belt, and the balls to rev it that hard, oh and for the evry day person probly bout 15k to have it runnin in a car theres more byt meh, ull find out if ur keen
ah yes spring retainers, forgot about that! dunno about needing solid buckets though, i cant see a problem with the standard shim under bucket at high revs. High quality timing belt is a good idea and yeah there might be a bit involved in the oiling side of things, I just said the oil pump looked at because I dont know.
If all this didnt suck enough the crank will probably need an hour meter run with it and then regually pulled out and crack tested. From what I hear 9000 RPM is much easier on the engine and the standard crank can handle ok, I guess I am going to find out!
30kw club
yeah from what ive seen they can get close to 9000 with some careful tuning, tho i have seen a gze crank go to 10500, with a simple balance, with the help of a to4 tho. ill find out what happens next year, just gotta figure out whether to boost or not to boost lol. as for the buckets you'd get away with, but dont they make a mess when they fail. id prefer standard just for the extra meat therefore strangth you get
mine - 8500rpm
122rwhp @8000
its an auto ecu but.
85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus
Originally Posted by joeschmo_57
once you go over a cerain revs then the issue of fatigue comes in. Thats why the group A guys even with thir cro-mo cranks can only use them for so long.
30kw club
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