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Thread: best money spent to give the 20v more ballls

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    Veteran FAST EDDIE's Avatar
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    Default best money spent to give the 20v more ballls

    so i dont realy know much about na power so heres my ideas, want it to rev to 10g just for my novelty. will get all the basics of a rebuild rings seals bearings.
    please correct me if/where im wrong

    so st20v

    microtech ecu thats already there
    keep std cast pistons (ive had heeps of issues with pistons and seems toyota engineers get it better than a/m doods)
    balance thats for sure
    lightened flywheel already got one
    trd.5mm?
    shave head for more comp?
    heavy valve springs? what brand
    cams? what brand?/duration/regrind?
    gonna keep vvt on?
    exhaust kazien g extractors, what diameter exhaust?

    any other ideas additions welcomed, engine in my street car replacing 130kw 4agte.
    AE86 THE BEST

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    Veteran shift_rook's Avatar
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    to keep the vvt in effect the highest duration you can run is a 272 on the inlet side, pm sam q, he knows a fuck load bout the 20v, definately keep vvt, balancing everything is also a great idea and standard 20v pistons are fine as long as you're not turboing past 8-10psi. microtech is the best thjoing you can do for it i wreckon

  3. #3
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    thanks but no, my lack of experience is embarassing I am just good at putting together bits and pieces of info that seems reliable to me and the little experience I have had.

    I agree with all your points bar the last one, I cant comment for that as I dont know much about ECU's so I will keep quiet about which ecu is best.

    eddie: like LittleRedSpirit and fantapants said, keep the revs to 9000, I dont think its that hard to make a 20v rev to 9000 but after that it opens up the issues of oil pump failure, crank fatiage, etc...

    Where do you want your power band to primarly be and how much compramises (if any) in low end power are you prepared to live to get that?

    I suggest some custom extractors, aftermarket cams and raised compression ratio on which specs depend on your answer above.

    Jonny: not the ideal place to ask but whats your opinion on the necessity of upgrading the retainers when the rates of the springs go up. I hear people talk about the stock ones being weak and pulling through but I cant get a straight answer anywhere and it shits me. Also any idea if there is an issue with spring binding or fatiage with 9.5mm lift on stock springs?

    The bottom end would suck with those big cams and maybe thats where he wants the power gains as he didnt say. But I guess you do have a pretty valid assumption in thinking that he actually wants to have some sort of power up to actually use 10,000RPM. Going with that assumption I completly agree with you on the cam specs and gears.


    LittleRedSpirit: whast so bad about the microtech? are the load points too far apart? too low a processing speed? lack of finer control of things like fuel spiking for initial throttle(s) opening?

    fantapants: care to share who the magic man is? also "streeter"? tell me your first name isnt Ken?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

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    Veteran shift_rook's Avatar
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    Default

    also could chuck it on a 7afe bottom end for more torque, it's what i'm doing and not an expensive mod, hell i got my 7a short motor from the wreckers for $80

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    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    To rev to 10g:
    (or to 9g and see what happens after that...)

    Different cams would be a must. Probably just as big as you can buy. Toda or Kelford. Maybe 305 degrees duration, but 288 degrees will work also.
    Upgraded valve springs, from Toda or Kelford as they advise.
    Upgraded con rods or conrod bolts at the very least.
    Remove VVT. Get good adjustable cam gears.

    That's probably all you need. Make some carefull notes about how the cam gears are positioned. There is no 1 correct spot, but you need to know what your doing, and need to experiment.

    Then it's just software tuning.

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    can you have both vvt and have aftermarket cams?? because thats my next step in my motor
    or is it better to run good adjustables instead??

  7. #7
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Cost more to work a 20v as Im sure you know. Especially atmo.

    Id suggest forged rods and pistons if you're really keen. Then get an ecu that runs better than a microtech on atmo tps type tunes.

    Id suggest the little motec m4, or Adaptronic e420c. Then get a really nice tune, by a really good tuner, makes a lot of difference on a 20v to have a good tune. Cam it up if you like but you'll lose vvt and spend maybe 2k and make it a bit piggish down low. Will put a big smile on your face, if you like revs. You will expect the oil pump to fail before 10000rpm also. You might be able to push this figure higher with electric oil pump assistance. Best to dry sump it if you want that sort of rpm. there is a guy in Australia making dry sump setups for them but be prepared to spend 4-5 grand.

    In reality the only way to get real torque from the 4age range is to boost it.
    Last edited by LittleRedSpirit; 19th April 2009 at 04:21 PM.

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    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    You can have vvt with some aftermarket cams. You can't have VVT with TRD cams as they accept normal 16v style gears, but you can with Toda. But he had stated 10,000rpm. So I figured you would want some fairly agressive cams to make any power up there, and with such big duration and overlap I wouldn't be taking chances with VVT. Not untill you did a lot of testing and research yourself.

  9. #9
    Veteran Clinton's Avatar
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    paint the cam covers with flame air brushing

    FTP.
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  10. #10
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    isnt this just for a street daily ed?

    if so forget the 10g engine mate, you allready have a fast car, amke this one fun Absolute best thing you can do right now is sack the microteck and get the motec or adap and the very best tune posibble. There is a massive difference in the quality of these engines when going from a shit tune to a well sorted tune

    You can do cams and keep vvt, toda do a good selection, also have seen good gains from the toda 421 exhaust manifolds. Silvertop heads also have harsher casting in the head. Keep the revs at 9g max, power peaking a 8gish and it will be a blast to drive.

    my two cents.

    also talk to magic man i think, he had a 130rwkw blacktop engine i beleieve.... he has a great knowledge base to pick from
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
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