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Thread: How to: Guard flaring

  1. #21
    Veteran johl's Avatar
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    they are 14x10 -37 and 14x12 -51 Watanabes by the sounds of his f/s thread. crazy n2 spec required.
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johl @ Jan 19 2008, 10:42 AM) </div>
    Ah now thats a different story :lol:

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    i did not cut the outer panel at all to flare mine. it was alot easier to get the lip round. although good write up.
    i cut inside out then got 2 sledge hammers then stretched it until it made a nice curve. then welded sheet steel inside to reseal the quarter.

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    hey man not a bad wright up at all, i don't reckon that u need to go to the extent of cutting the guard like that,here are some pics of my ke70 front guard, done with a shifter and a hammer and dolly set from super steep autos, not complete, though u can see that u can get good shape and flare with an $18 hammer and dolly kit and half n hour




  5. #25
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    Nice write up, good amount of useful pictures too.

    Just one suggestion though... I'd imagine the cuts would be neater if you used something like a jigsaw (with a metal blade, obviously), or an air powered device of similar design. Not 100% sure, but would probably make the little sections require less straightening post-cut, reducing the amount of bogging, etc, you'd have to do...

    I'd even be tempted to fibreglass on the inside of the guard, then run bog over the top to fill in the gaps if the cut sections are reasonably neat, instead of doing a layer of bog over the fibreglass on the outside of the guards. Mind you, I'm definatly no expert in this area. Don't even know if you could get it not to sag while it's drying. But, having said that, it's probably worth a shot... Depends on the gaps between the pieces of metal I guess.
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  6. #26
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    far out best article out there! nice work man! 2 days is a pretty neat time as well~ just wondering what sort of times were left for fibreglass/bog/filler/paint to dry? would u say you'd get a better (or stronger job) if u left each application of bog for like 12 hours? or can u really do the whole thing in 2 days without anything bad happening?

  7. #27
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    To the guy above who did the dolly-work, that is awesome!! I don't know about your car so much, but with a sprinters guards (rear), they are VERY strong and welded together, so it was kinda difficult to bash them out. Yes, some have definitely done it, but it isnt as easy as the front guards (which look exactly like yours).

    Summarised: For the front guards on a sprinter, your idea is the best by far, and what i have done on my own. On the rear though, could be difficult.


    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (PuGZoR @ Feb 8 2008, 12:35 PM) </div>I'm sure it would be neater, would it be able to cut through the 3(?) layers of metal easily though?

    Unfortunately we didnt have either tool, had to make do with just the grinder good idea though!!

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tricky_dan @ Feb 8 2008, 02:40 PM) </div>Bog took a few hours, fibreglass took pretty well overnight. Having those 2 big spotlights, even during the day, sped up drying times IMMENSELY, and are cheap as chips from supercheap, definitely worth it.

    I will also add, that in hindsight, there are a few things i would have done differently:

    - Instead of just cutting the inside guard from the outside and bashing the inside guard up, i would cut a good section of the inner guard out. The tyres still seemed to hit the metaleven though theyh were most of the way up against the outer guard

    - Bashing the inside guard, you will miss and hit the bog .. it cracks it

    - Riveting on a set of origin guards, and fibreglassing them on would be easier, and probably look better



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    very nice !! =D
    looks hawt !!
    **Note: Saikou is not a mechanic (Prone to asking questions)

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    [quote]
    To the guy above who did the dolly-work, that is awesome!! I don't know about your car so much, but with a sprinters guards (rear), they are VERY strong and welded together, so it was kinda difficult to bash them out. Yes, some have definitely done it, but it isnt as easy as the front guards (which look exactly like yours).

    Summarised: For the front guards on a sprinter, your idea is the best by far, and what i have done on my own. On the rear though, could be difficult.

    hey man thanks for that, i know exactly what your saying! I'm planning to do the rears soon, well both front and rear on my sprinter, those pics were just a test on the Ke and your right the rears are same a sprinter on the Ke but I'm gonna get one of those air cut off tools, small bad ass blade spinning its bean off, and I'm going to cut out the inner and mould the guard exactly the same way as the font and it will be perfect!!! i'll try get some pics, all the Ke on needs is a bit more shape around the center of the flare and tidy up by cutting along the black line. its really not hard to do and u only need a small amount of filler to make it perfect.

  10. #30
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    Good write up. However it is easier if both inner and outer guards are cut as the inner sheet metal can bend more easily with the relief cuts. Fibreglass filler or fibreglass strips on the outside is the best way, followed by bogging will get the best finish and keep some strength within the guard still. Glassing the inside is also a good idea to further strengthen the guard and prevent the tyre from being ripped if it does make contact.

    A dolly and roller would be neater when pulling the guard out also, it would help retain the natural curve of the guard as it comes out.

    Great idea of putting the rim and tyre on the car so you know exactly how much to flare, makes it impossible to not get good fitment! top job.
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