How to: Guard flaring

[johl]

correct me if I'm wrong but u could in my eyes jack the car up remove rear wheels, make relief cuts, bend out a little, take springsa out, put wheels back on, put newspaper ontop of tyre so u get 5-10mm of clearance from tyre, then slowly lower the car down so it will bend both sides evenly and will also shape around ur tyre. then fibreglass to retain the shape.


so correct me if I'm wrong?

[SNAP]

i personally think do away with the butchering, get a air cut off tool, with a small razer sharp metal cutting disc, and cut out the inner rear guard, leaving the outer skin, and get out your hammer and dolly! cutting and fiberglass and silicone really looks like a average job and what happens to fiberglass? it doesnt like to flex so get a lit tap and it will crack so will your 1inch of bog, all u should need is a light layer of bog to fill the imperfections, u can see how good u can get the guards without cutting them up. ill post some pics when i do the sprinter

[Konakid]

^^ The whole reason for cutting the guard is to achieve MORE flare than what you can with only rolling the outer guard, its also much easier to just cut and roll/pull than spend ages rolling and rolling.

[Patto]

well the way i do the rear is to cut through the top of the inner guard all the way around until the inner and outer are seperated then i just jack the outer half away from the inner to the desired distance then weld in a new section in the space between the inner and outer
then you need to add a piece to the rear edge of door because you actually move the whole outer guard out from it's original position
this allows the wheel and tyre to actually have travel into the wheel well ............
when i did callum's we achieved 35mm increase in the rear had to add 20mm to the door to make it look "stock"
factory arch is pretty much still stock

before


after

[SNAP]

it is everyone's choice to go about it the best way they think, but it did only take me no more that 40mins to do one guard, no cutting at all, i believe that hammer and dolly is the best way by far, its neater, and u can stretch the sheet metal if u need and still keep a really good shape, i don't see how cutting the guard gets u any extra flare, all i can see is that some people may think the guard may warp?? I'm not sure, but u can see that it doesnt. i dno i just cring seeing the grinder getting into those guards......

[86xxx]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dr!ft_Sh@gg!n_W@g0n @ Feb 12 2008, 02:40 PM) </div>No offense mate, but look at how dimpled that gaurd is...

Its got me stuffed how anyone can talk themselves into just cutting a gaurd, bashing it around a bit to a shape that kind of resembles the original and then join it back up with silicon, fibreglass, bog and god only knows what. :blink:

Looking at some of these pics of people's attempts at flaring gaurds really make me cringe. :fap: ghetto style = FTL (n)

For anyone who's interested in knowing how a gaurd is meant to be flared, read on. Those who think ghetto is better, best not read it... Body works flare guards by cutting both the inner and outer above the original flare and then making a template (and then a piece to fit) to effectively space the original flare out. This way, you don't have the mangled mess of a gaurd left as seen many times on here, minimise the bog, have a structurally sound gaurd that looks factory.

But again, for some reason most members rather the sharp edged look and the botched up f*^ked up look so i don't see this method taking off in the future....

[v7da1]

anyone noz how to fit 10z but leave them sticking outz indo style ftw

[skin]

Its all about welding the cuts back up for maximum strength

[skin]

finished

[PuGZoR]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Skin @ Feb 12 2008, 04:21 PM) </div>That's good guard flairage.