How to: Guard flaring

[marvis]

Thats hot!

[steroidchickens]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Feb 12 2008, 01:13 PM) </div>
thats how i did mine. each to there own i guess. but atlease i know if i ever hit anything it will hold together because there is only a skim of bog there. it is all metal.

[johl]

Ghost86 Posted Yesterday, 02:43 PM
anyone noz how to fit 10z but leave them sticking outz indo style ftw


everytime u post we die a little inside.

gaurds look awesome steroids. how does ur rear bar line up now its been pulled out further?

[SNAP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (steroidchickens @ Feb 12 2008, 09:18 PM) </div>
thats how i did mine. each to there own i guess. but atlease i know if i ever hit anything it will hold together because there is only a skim of bog there. it is all metal.
[/b][/quote]

yeah i agree, ive seen your guards out at oran park, definantly look good!

[stefan]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johl @ Feb 12 2008, 05:47 PM) </div>
get big flare AND HEKTIK offsets y0

seriously dude please write correct english

[Matt-AE86]

1. Go and buy a dolly, a concave one is prefered
2. Get a hammer for used for nailing wood. These are good as they are curved and do not leave marks if you hit in the wrong spot
3. you want to start clipping of the tabs inside the gaurd (front only) that hold the cover on
4. Start tapping the inside lip up
5. depending on how you want it you can smash the inside lip completely flat or just a bit. One will give you a sharp flat edge the other iwll give a nice round finished edge (can be fixed later with some bog
6. put the dolly on the outside first and start hitting the main downards lip out a little, start along hte edge and take it slow.

By now you will have a semi flare not much more then standard

7. now put hte dolly on the inside and start lightly hitting the original line


Repeat 6 and 7 until desired flare is done. Have done this for multiple people and they now have taken my skills with them.

[Ade_Mc]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slippry @ Feb 13 2008, 02:55 PM) </div>
get big flare AND HEKTIK offsets y0

seriously dude please write correct english
[/b][/quote]

he can't help like me! indo style, bangsat all the way! haha luv the indo style...the taxis' there crack me up...huge cannons etc!

steriod..would liek to see picks.
anyhow i'm taking the easy way out, and installing bolt on flares.
anyone know where i can get tappet screws to bolt the flares in?
tried bunnings they only got the long stuff for brick etc.

[Konakid]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Feb 12 2008, 02:04 PM) </div>The relief cuts do exactly that, relive the metal from its tension so that it can be bent and shaped without popping in the top of the guard and also so that the guard can be pulled out as well, not just up.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (medwin46 @ Feb 12 2008, 02:19 PM) </div>No offense mate, but look at how dimpled that gaurd is...

Its got me stuffed how anyone can talk themselves into just cutting a gaurd, bashing it around a bit to a shape that kind of resembles the original and then join it back up with silicon, fibreglass, bog and god only knows what. :blink:

Looking at some of these pics of people's attempts at flaring gaurds really make me cringe. :fap: ghetto style = FTL (n)

For anyone who's interested in knowing how a gaurd is meant to be flared, read on. Those who think ghetto is better, best not read it... Body works flare guards by cutting both the inner and outer above the original flare and then making a template (and then a piece to fit) to effectively space the original flare out. This way, you don't have the mangled mess of a gaurd left as seen many times on here, minimise the bog, have a structurally sound gaurd that looks factory.

But again, for some reason most members rather the sharp edged look and the botched up f*^ked up look so i don't see this method taking off in the future....
[/b][/quote]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (70XIN @ Jan 18 2008, 12:48 AM) </div>Yep, thats one sharp edged, botched up, ghetto looking guard right there..... :blink:

Not everyone wants their car to be show standard, metal fab like you are talking about costs a lot of money, the same flare was achieved for under $100 and is damn near perfect. Yeah, its not factory strong, but the car has stiff suspension so the tyres wont hit the guards, even if they do, the point of the fibreglass strips are to reinforce the cut area.

One thing i would do personally, is bend the front guard lip under and very slightly flare the front guard to get rid of the factory 'crease' to make em look even. Bloody good job all the same, just how coupes should be done, looks fucking hot. Skin, bloody good job dude, welding does make for a neater guard if your picky.

[seek]

sorry, but can someone quickly explain why there is so much talk on how strong your guards are, when its quiet clear that if you nudge something or hit it, it will still bend/break ?

[SNAP]

peoples opinion on how they should be done? its all fine, everyone has their own way and none of them are wrong, metal can be eaisly moulded, fiberglass cracks n bog falls out!