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Thread: 264deg Cam on 20V?

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    I've read that the 264deg cam with 9mm lift will work on a BT 20V with stock ecu. However I have a feeling it will require better valve springs and shim under buckets... is this true and how much am I looking to benefit from this, power and torque wise?

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    gunbz-r
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    well with such small duration i doubt the shims will be affected, though to run 9mm lift i'd advise better valve springs, and retainers to take the extra strain from the pressure that would be created by heavier springs.

    as for the duration ive heard the same thing, that it is safe to use upto the 260-270 degree mark on the inlet side, i have even seen a hks built motor with an adjustable variable inlet pulley. from memory though 260 degree isnt much of an increase over standard.

    the specs i heard of, were 26* on the inlet with standard pulley, and 28* with adj cam pulley on exhaust.

    dude u wont know what will work till u try it, theres is not enough support for blacktop 20vs in aus, just get a degree wheel and have a play don't have to worry about destroying valves in the process then

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    Senior Member Paw-DK's Avatar
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    WHOA was gonna ask the same question on tech question lol
    do you reckon 260 duration cams will make a worth while difference over the standard cams.. power wise

    and if 260cams were used with a 8.?? lift way under 9mm will that be able to run on standard ST 20v with a piggyback ecu??
    (was planning 288 but don't have money to blow all at once to support and strengthen the engine so using smaller cams for now)

    and gunbz-r.. whats a degree wheel? :huh:

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    gunbz-r
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    all a degree wheel is, is a wheel with marks of degree on it. u attach it to ur cam pulley, with ameasuring device on the lobe (can't remember exact terminology its a somethin gauge lol), all it does is show u the degree of cam compard to the position of the motor, cams should be set up this way.

    ill get all the right terminology and get a bit more detailed later when i have the time tonight

    unless someone else knows a better way of explaining it

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Feb 20 2008, 09:25 AM) </div>Sweet, thanks dude.
    Just for a bit of interesting reading should check out this link, its for the 16v and not all about cams but still a good read none the less...

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    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    for the money spent I really can't see this being worth it. For a start both 20V engines come with 250 degree cams and the blacktop has 8.2mm of lift. So it is a pretty small change. I say save up to run an aftermarket ecu.
    30kw club

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sam_Q @ Feb 20 2008, 05:05 PM) </div>Hmmm I wouldve thought it to be the other way round. An aftermarket ecu is expensive, say 600 bux for a 2nd hand microtech, then a decent street tune needs to be done, which will probably cost around 500 bux... and at the end of the day, an aftermarket ecu isn't going to extract much power from a standard 20V unless running larger cams and so on. I don't really see the point in an aftermarket ecu with the 20V's unless your going for something a little more extreme.

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    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    on contrary the standard 20V ecu has an overly rich mixture above a certain throttle opening or revs and it also has a very conservate inition map standard. From a highly reliable source (the boss at EFI hardware) the 20V will gain 15% up high and even more in the mid range. Keep in mind that also modifications to the 20v will always be held back by the stock ecu. Yes its expensive but the results are there.

    ALso think of the cost of cams:

    cams: $400 atleast
    new buckets: $25 each? if needed

    that might end up at $900 for a very small increase in power
    30kw club

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    the tune doesnt just give power increase....but can totally change the way a engine drives....which to some is more important than a wank factor power figure

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    Hmm... but it really depends on how far you're going with your engine I guess. It would be a pitty going to an aftermarket ecu and keeping the engine basically stock, which is what I'm really I'm after. Cos anything involving opening up the bottom end is gonna cost some serious cash. The 264deg cams should increase the mid to high range torque and power in a simliar fashion to a tuned aftermarket ecu and at a lower cost. However, is it possible to dial in the cams to their optimum performance without a dyno?

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