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Thread: Where to buy Negative Camber Roll Center Adapters/Adjusters

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    have searched the forum, but fail to find any info about Negative Camber Roll Center Adapters/Adjusters

    they look like this


    anyone knows where i can get them from? and how much are they?
    don't mind 2nd hand
    thanks for help

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    Roll Center Adapters

    The RCA blocks (roll center blocks) do a couple of things. First they move the roll center of the front control arms closer to the stock location after you lower your car. This helps your corner entry as the weight transfer is better ballenced. Second is bump steer, after you lower your car, the amount of angle on the lower arms and tie rods affect how much change in toe you recive as the car goes threw its suspension travel. You may notice it as you go threw a corner and hit a bump, the wheel will jump or jerk. By putting the angles back to stock, it lessen the amount of toe change you recive which will give you a smoother wheel.

    Install is quick and simple, just remove the bolts out of the bottom of your struts, place the RCA block in between the lower arms and struts using the spacers provided to line up the holes, then use the bolts provided and tighten to 50 ft lbs.


    Negative Camber Roll Center Adapters

    The NCRCA's work the same as rca's (correct for bump steer, move roll center closer to stock) but add some width to the track of the lower control arms by moving the bottom of the struts outwards. By doing this, they also add camber. On Battle Version NCRCA's, if you notice there are 2 levels of adjustment, The first level is 20mm wider and the second level is 35mm wider. I suggest going with the first level of adjustment to start with.
    The install is pretty simple, just remove the bottom 2 bolts out of your struts (on both sides at once or the sway bar will hold the control arm), Next take the sleaves supplied and place them into the ncrca blocks, then bolt the blocks to your struts using the supplied bolts. You need to have a 10mm allen socket, and tighten them to 50 foot pounds. Once the blocks are on, simply bolt the lower arms to the blocks using the stock bolts you just took out. Again, 50 ft lbs tight.

    Since they do widen the front track of your car, pay close attention to clearances you have in your fenders, You usually have to remove the fender liner and or clearance the fender well and fender gap. Sometimes pulling the castor rods forward 2 complete turns will also help give a little added space.

    taken from: http://www.battleversion.com/

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    Senior Member 4door's Avatar
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    hey Su, i think ajps company stocks them from memory

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    Kyouteki for T3

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    Ajps.
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    Neg camber RCA's also screw up your steering geometry. Using the examples of the one mentioned above by AE86.cn, they move the pivot point for the bottom of the strut furthur away from the strut centre line by 20-35mm, measured at the bottom of the strut. this increases the scrub radius by at least 25-40mm at a guess. I wouldn't use them myself.

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    $180 to your door mate

    Flick me an email if i can do anything to help, contact@kyouteki-tuning.com


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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CRAZY86 @ Mar 6 2008, 09:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
    Neg camber RCA's also screw up your steering geometry. Using the examples of the one mentioned above by AE86.cn, they move the pivot point for the bottom of the strut furthur away from the strut centre line by 20-35mm, measured at the bottom of the strut. this increases the scrub radius by at least 25-40mm at a guess. I wouldn't use them myself.[/b]
    lots of very competitve drift cars use them.

    take a look at the scrub radius of a speedway car (which is constantly sideways).

    your agrument would be sound if you could give solid reasons why scrub radius is bad.

    it increaeses steering effort, road noise, kick back... none are really "bad" things in performance car terms.
    78's

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    ajps 40mm ones here VERY soon, got some left over t3 ones, $160

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