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Thread: no. 10

  1. #31
    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    on topic of the 3s, i don't really see it being a problem which generation you get. Assuming its still going to be N/A whats the worst you can do? Add big cams? Quads? a gen 1 can't starve of oil then can it? Maybe tilt it the other way?

    Oh yair, can ant engineer cars now? i must get mine done
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeschmo_57 View Post
    I tried to sell my virginity yesterday in a pub. Shame it was second hand anyway

  • #32
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    there are no real problems that can't be fairly easily overcome, but there are many significant differences.

    any properly set up rwd 3s wont starve of oil. there are tons of rwd 3s's in IPRA, the problem is people not knowing what theyre doing when they rwd them. tilting the engine wont do much either. there is no real problem with the oil drains, if you look at them in comparison to a 4ag, you will see that is not really the issue.

    you can search my recent threads on toymods in the general tech section, there is a pretty good discussion on 3s oiling issues there.

    basically, if you have a good sump, keep it full (and have an accurate way of measuring it). it should be fine.

    turbo or not doenst really affect the oil issue either.







    these are the only interesting photos of no.10 right now. its an empty shell in average condition with mis matched pannels and all mechanical workings removed. saved for the rear axle which i just threw in to do a test fit of the wheels.

    looks like i will be raising the guard height a little bit.
    78's

  • #33
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    :woot:

  • #34
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    was only stirring about the daily driver thing!
    good to see your having a pretty serious go.

    - MK1VR6 / RB25S13 -

  • #35
    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    also dug up some standard strut tops today, which was the missing link to getting the front end in for a bit of a look at whats required front end wise as far as guard mods.
    78's

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    i have been to the place that was a townhouse down behind another one, opposite the pub i believe

    i work down the road in milton

  • #37
    Veteran biggo's Avatar
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    are you goin to replace the bolt on flares on the rear?
    85' JDM TA63 GTTR sedan - Godlike
    89' JDM GZ20 Soarer - 1jz + R154 bus

    Quote Originally Posted by joeschmo_57 View Post
    I tried to sell my virginity yesterday in a pub. Shame it was second hand anyway

  • #38
    Veteran driftke70's Avatar
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    love the little vw
    wheelfriends.wordpress.com

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    yeah pictures of the vw? haha.

    thats the first thing i noticed.

  • #40
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    i will be cutting out the outer section of the rear inner guard completely, as well as cutting off whats left of the stock outer flair (partially cut already for the over fenders it once had) the plan was then just to replace the outer flair with a stock section i cut from my other wreck.

    i have these bits at home now, but theyre in a little too poor a condition to use. so i am either going to use stock front 86 guards (LF on RR, RF on LR) or maybe some KE ones, which jason mentioned is how he did his.

    anyway this will be just the outer skin and will just be lap joined by zig zagging spots (not a full butt weld like last time on the blue car..) fully flair it on the car, and then replace the outer section of the inner guard with flat sheet, but it will just stop where it intersects the outer skin horizontally. which gives a little more space seeing as a decent amount of the treaded part of the tire is outside the line of the body now..

    i think my totall offset will be around -30/35. i want to stick to wheels that are around -20 and ill be running a little bit wider diff. i think its smart to set up the car like this anyway, as all stronger diffs are a little bit wider too.

    front guards are a little wider than rears standard so that will help a bit. i do want ALOT of poke still, so i think this is gonna work out pretty good. I'm also thinking about raising the guard height a little bit, but i have to get the car on the grounf first to work that out.. I'm happy to run the x member down to around 60mm off the ground.. somewhere in the region of 80-60mm, if i can maintain adequate travel at this height without raising the guard height i wont bother. obviously this means that i wont be running much travel, less than 70mm positive.

    with this little amount of travel i have decided I'm not going to bother with a watts link i will just have the panhard bar ajustable at both ends so i can get the roll centre right and also keep it flat meaning i wont get much lateral movement anyway. this will mean there will be less weight and less friction in the rear end too.
    78's

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