I am so glad you put that picture up in here
Basically, bump steer, is not steering caused by bumps, that is a scrub radius problem (refer to 1st post).
Bump steer (refer to 1st post) is when the toe angles change under suspension compression/extension. This is commonly caused by different lengths of the tierod end to rack end vs ball joint to inner bush, or the LCA and tie rod being in different points of there arc of movement
Now on to said pic, and I'm gonna be brutally honest here.
Firstly, the tie rod end is all cocked over at a bad angle, that has the posibility of pulling out the ball of the tierod.
secondly, the steering can, under the right circumstances, invert, as in the tie rod could pass across the LCA and end up in front of it.
Third, the arms arent parallel, well, the arms are but there pivot points arent. u need 2 draw a line between the rack end and the tierod end and thru the center of the ball joint (where it pivots) and the center of the LCA inner bush. If you do that you see that the arms arent level at all.
fourth, u need 2 measure the length from the rack end to the tie rod end and the measurement from the balljoint pivot point and inner bush pivot, if these are way different then you will get bump steer.
My basic point is that while i think this setup could be made to work, it is much easier to make the standard design work. All u really need to do for a basic setup that will do what 90% of people here want, drift or grip drivers included, is get some nice bushes, some corona front arms, some RCA's and a rosejointed castor arm arangement. The major issue in the front of ae/ke's is that the castor rod bush is a shitty design and moves around alot, giving a vague feeling, if you rosejoint it or change the design to something similar to a silvia castor arangement then it will handle very predictably and wont have any issues with geometry.