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Thread: 4AGE 20V electric water pump

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    was just thinking to myself the other night about the fwd to rwd waterline conversion. I've seen quite a few ways on how to go about it, from relocating the thermostat and so on. But wouldn't it be just as simple, maybe cost a little more, to use an EWP Davies Craig water pump or equivalent to eliminate the need for a thermostat?

    Just have a blanking plate with a channel cut out to redirect the flow where the thermostat would normally be and simply plum the electric water pump in somewhere. The blanking plate can then be drilled and tapped for the water temp sensors. As for the original water pump, the rotor can be removed, so it no longer pumps any water and may even increase the HP slightly, whilst still using the original 20V water pulley.

    Yes this may cost a little more, but the ewp water pump should control engine temp much better and also free up the engine a little.
    Am I missing anything here, like most of my hair brain schemes usually are?

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    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    You can have a electric water pump if you want. As for it being easier to set up, I'm not sure. You still have to make a few fittings and find some hose.

    You have to make a big water fitting on the front of the block where the water pump used to go. And of course a water fitting on the front of the head.

    You can have the block with a channel cut in it up the back, but you can also drill a hole in the head and use a thin flat plate.

    Maybe you could look at the old Formula Altantic waterpump for inspiration.

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    Yep definitely will need hoses, pipes and what not. Although now that I think about it, I could probably just run the inlet and outlet hoses up to the blanking plate. Then I could blank off the original outlet house coming out of the head. If anyone can point out and flaws or improvements that'd be great.


    This is my crappy interpretation of the back of a 20V head.


    Now this is the setup I think would work... hopefully.

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    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    jonny: where can I find a pic of that formular atlantic pump? or any other parts for that matter?

    vezza: please don't run external water lines, its a cime against nature! now seriously it would be easier to just do it properly, heres what you can do:

    take the front half of the pump right off

    make a plate to go in its place.

    fit the davies craig pump in the bottom radiator hose (with a controller!)

    fit the bypass plate, possibly with the sensors in it, ask kaizen for that one

    modify the top water outlet to face up and foward, again kaizen garage do this pretty well.

    hook it up and it should be ok
    30kw club

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sam_Q @ Apr 6 2008, 10:23 PM) </div>Not sure if I'm quite following you. So you fit the pump to the bottom radiator outlet (cold water) then connect it to where? Because you said to blank the water pump and put a bypass plate at the back of the head, now there's only the small outlet pipe free.

    If I run the pipes to the back of the head as shown, won't this make it identical to the stock setup, whereby cool water enters through the head?
    As for taking the front half of the pump with the pulley off and fitting a blanking plate, is it possible to get a shorter accessories belt to suit?



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    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    ok put a pipe that goes from the back of the water pump to the bottom radiator hose then put the electric water pump in the middle of that.

    block off the water oulet next to the exhuast flange

    fit a bypass plate to the back of the head to bypass the water from one opeing to the other.

    You could run external pipes but its a lot of screwing around

    you would be able to get a shorter belt no problems at all

    still want a functional heater?
    30kw club

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    Half and half with the heater at this stage, will think about it later.
    Yeah your way is definitely neater, but won't cold water run through the block first then up to the head passing the throttles and heating the intake air?

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    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    indeed your right, however I believe that the real world difference might be pretty small. But I shouldnt say I as I have no conclusive proof
    30kw club

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    Senior Member Vezza's Avatar
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    I remember reading the my acoustic web page, where the guy orginally had the water pumping through the block 1st and experienced over heating issues. But when he changed the waterlines to flow through the head then the block, the problem was solved.

    Most of the aftermarket waterline conversion kits all seem to flow cool water through the head 1st as well.

    Does anyone actually have any evidence to back up whether it does or does not make a difference? This car will be a half track half street car, so cooling will be a priority.


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    kaizen garage like me and many others all do the block first, all 16V engines are block first and thats counts for the formular atlantic engine.

    Heres some comical info for you, i run a Hyundai radiator but no fan, I mean its there and all but it has never been run in 3 years because I never had a need. I have to sit it in 35 degree heat in traffic for it to heat up to half way.

    I wish I could do a dyno run to see how much difference there is. The thing I can assure you of is that theres not reliability/cooling issues with either method if done right.
    30kw club

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