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Thread: 7AGE (16v or 20v)

  1. #1
    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    Hey everyone,

    As you may know, I am currently building a 7AGE 20v fomy ke70, and decided to write this up as I have seen the question pop up a few times.



    Now, first off, for those who don't know what a 7AGE is, it is a 1.8L engine (7AFE) out of a few models of Corolla which were all of FWD Origin. These were such cars as the AE102X, AE102R etc. People then change the head of the engine with a 4AGE head for a number of reasons, hence making the "7AGE" hybrid engine. The 7A block is 10mm taller than a 4age block, giving it the extra stroke of a 1.8L.

    To get the engine bolted to the crossmember, I used standard 4AC (RWD) steel engine brackets which bolted straight onto the block. Make sure that these are bolted into the correct holes, because if they are bolted too far forward, the RHS mount will bolt up 2 out of the 3 holes, and the LHS mount will only bolt in 2 of the 4 holes.


    ^^What happens when the RHS mount it too far forward. If the bracket is moved back into the rear "triangle", it will bolt up all sweet.


    The LHS mount has to share holes with the rear alternator bracket, so use the pulley bracket bolts on the rear two holes, and use the alternator bracket bolts on the front two holes. This works perfectly. As Shown, if mounted too far forward, only 2 of the 4 holes line up. You can see the rear bracket for the alternator, which you share the holes with the engine bracket



    Get your AE86/AE71 engine crosmember, with 4AC/4AGE rubber mounts and bolt the crossmember on. It should all line up.

    I have no Alternator at the moment to mount up with the LHS bracket to check clearances, but I will update that accordingly.



    As for the RWD cooling assembly*, you can do it like this:
    Get a 4ac waterpump and take the rear housing off, and do the sa with the 7A pump. Keep the 7A front housing, and keep the 4ac rear housing, as these will be bolted together. This is done because the rear housing of the pump is already a RWD version, and the front housing keeps alignment with all the pulleys, because the front housing is a tad longer than the 4ac. You will have to make up a custom rear water line for the rear housing of the pump. I have forgotten a lot of what I have read on this section, but please read Sam_Q's RWD water guide at the bottom of the page. Thats pretty much all you need to do in that guide, but the alternator is on the other side of the engine, Which means not as many water hose modifications on the water pump.

    I got an AE71 (RWD 4AC) Alternator in the mail yesterday, and have trial fitted it to the engine. As I don't have the original Alternator brackets here for the alternator I'm using, it means I have to buy yet MORE things. The alternator goes on the same side as the 4age motor, which is the drivers side (Right hand side). I need to get the 20v or 16v pulley and mount from somewhere.


    Now, If your doing the 20v head on the 7a bottom end like me, read on..

    The 20v head will bolt on straight up. But some modifications are needed to other parts to make it all work. Again, Sam_Q's RWD water guide is used with the 20v head (See link at the bottom of the page). But the 20v head can be made to work in a different, not as neat way. It will require bashing of your firewall with a hammer to make some room.

    The 20v head has a water outlet at the back of the head, which causes dramas with your firewall, which needs to be bashed out so the housing can fit. Modifiers then make up a water line and run it underneath the exhaust manifold to the radiator. Like I said, It makes it look ugly as you can see by the picture below. I don't really know all about how to do it, but thats the idea pretty much right there.


    ^ The waterline goes underneath the extractors. Doesnt look as neat.

    The dipstick on the 7A has a 90 degree bracket for bolting to the head, But of course there is no ho on the 20v head there for it. So the bracket needs to be hammered flat (180 degrees) so it can bolt into a hole in the front of the 20v head. Then get a bolt from the RHS bracket (If you hace a spare one like I did. 12mm i think) It will go straight into the hole in the front of the head. The dipstick hole is only just out, so you will need to drill another hole in the brcket to allow it to bolt on.



    Thats all for now as is all i can remember. I will Put more pics up tonight or something.

    ***PLEASE NOTE**
    The 20v head I am using is a silvertop, I don't know if its the same as blacktop so some info might not work.

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    good work champ, but can you please add it to the FAQ



    cheers

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    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    so.. you have the 7a bottom end, with the sump on, attached to the cross member using the stock engine brackets? i was always led to believe (on good authority) that the sump fouls the x member? and either the engine brackets or x member needs modding.

    would be good if you could clarify.
    78's

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    Senior Member SEXY 16's Avatar
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    what rods are you using lad and how much machine work have you done to your crank ???
    interesting read!

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slydar @ Apr 13 2008, 12:44 PM) </div>Yes I have the 7A btom end on the crossmember with the sump and everything. No, I am not using standard engine brackets, I am using standard 4AC brackets which bolt straight on

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SEXY 16 @ Apr 13 2008, 12:47 PM) </div>Hi mate.
    I havent got any rods as of yet, I was going to run the standard engine for a little while, until I could afford to fully build the engine. I am having doubts that it will last very long though.

    Was planning on tying out a 4agze crank and seeing if it will fit. I will be doing a bit of experimenting.

  6. #6
    Senior Member SEXY 16's Avatar
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    why not try to machine a 7a crank into a 4a block

    i fitted a 2.4 lancer crank into my evo engine well i didnt fit it wilky did lol

    anythings possible

    little tip

    don't waste your money building 1 with standard rods it wont last

    might as well pee your money up against a wall


  7. #7
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    are you planning to go turdybro or stay na?

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    Veteran starni_boy's Avatar
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    N/A most likely.

    Well for now anyway. Maybe further down the track when in need of more power.

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    i am currently doing the same conversion, but with a 16V head

    i will write up my findings once i am finished



    good write-up so far man!!
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



    ^ Clicky clicky!

  10. #10
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    I just took some photo's of my 7age /w 16V head

    engine mounts and waterlines

    will post them up shortly

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