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Thread: SSR Mesh (how do you take the mesh out?)

  1. #31
    Senior Member Oly AE86's Avatar
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    Back on the topic of the restore process itself, so people don't make the same mistakes I did.

    I sand blasted the centers to remove all the old paint and a little corrosion from age. It took ages as the paint is pretty baked on after 15+ years of driving, but was good surface for painting. Spend a good 3 hours at work on a sunday afternoon making sure all the paint was gone from the little diamonds in the middle. :confused:

    Then had the centers powder coated while the rims themselves where polished by a wheel repairer. I initially bought some HD wheel paint, but because the metal was bare the paint easliy chipped, and made me angry. So I sandblasted them again, and proceeded to the powdercoater. If you are painting onto a bare metal, it is reccomended to spray an etch acid or similar especially onto an alloy so the paint can get some bite.

    I then got some new Stainless bolts and re-assembled the same as Hayden, one bolt at a time on opposite sides, until the whole centre was in.

    [attachment=26052:restoration3.JPG]


  2. #32
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    that look fresh as dude (y). so how much did your way roughly cost (powder coat and for etch acid)?

  3. #33
    Senior Member superbmobile's Avatar
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    if you use the etch primer make sure that you don't paint the top coat with an acrylic colour because it will not stick to the etch primer as it is enamel. You have to use a enamel colour or 2pac top coat.

  4. #34
    Senior Member Oly AE86's Avatar
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    Powdercoating was $40 per wheel, Polishing of lips was $60 per wheel.

  5. #35
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    ^sweet . thanks for that fellas.

  6. #36
    Senior Member Whip's Avatar
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    Bit off-topic but does anyone know how much it would cost to get a bent wheel repaired? And get gutter rash repaired and so on.

    I can get some picks up of my wheels if that helps.

  7. #37
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    um i guess it depends on the extent of the damage i guess. i had a bent rim and it was going to be about anywhere from 80-120. and gutter rash was $40 per wheel. this was at tingle tyres in wynnum though. if your in brissy i would try Wilsons wheel works. i hear they're the shit!

  8. #38
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    dude that looks sick.
    **Note: Saikou is not a mechanic (Prone to asking questions)

    Saikou sitting in his 86GTS
    AE86→JZZ30→ZN6

  9. #39
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    hi guys sorry it may be late for some but couple of things to mention, sandblasting castings i.e. the mesh centre is not the best way to go. this can open the surface to porosity in the casting and with fatigue lead to cracks propogating :o if these microscopic flaws are painted over you may not notice until it's too late. bead blasting would be a better option to remove the old paint, but may not get into all the nooks and crannys of the mesh.
    paint stripper and wirebrush is better, although more time consuming (use goggles and gloves people B) ) or dipping them in a solvent bath that doesn't effect the alloy is best, but remember to thoroughly rinse and neautralise all solvent/paint stripper after or else primer/paint will not adhear well and flake off. Coat center in etch primer as soon as possible if not immediately after they have been stripped, as the alloy will oxidise quickly in air.
    as for painting 2-pac or powder-coating will give the most durable finish depending on colour you're after. for basic colours powder coating is cheaper and you can get some metallic finishes too, if you have a specific colour in mind or are mates with a spray painter I'd say go 2-pac. Also try not to get to much paint on the face that fits flush against the rim and the tabs that go inbetween the rims (you know what I mean?) it will make putting them together a lot harder!!!
    oh back tracking, to get the centers out undo all bolts, should be able to use allen key and ratchet with extension, squirt WD-40 CRC or rust-eaze for stubborn nuts. place rim face down on a level surface (prefferably a rug or board so you don't damage the edge of the rim or center when it pops out) and use some gentle persuasion from a knockometer (i.e. hammer) and a block of wood 2x4 ought to do the trick. they are pressed in tightly so work your way around trying to spread the load evenly.
    to get the centers back in line up bolt holes and could be a pressed in, or if you don't have access to a large press, use 4-5 bolts spread around to slowly wind them in evenly, as mentioned tightening across in a star pattern. NEW bolts and nuts are highly recommended and torquing them evenly to 2 N/m for 8mm bolts or 1.8 N/m for 6mm (I think I have the imperial equivalent written down somewhere... 1/4" bolts - 15 ft/lbs and 5/16" bolts - 20 ft/lbs. but also depends the size, grade of bolts and how many around the rim 6,8,10,20 etc) and Loctite threadlock would be a good idea, especially if you don't have a torque wrench, so long as you tighten them all evenly - believe me after tightening half the 80 bolts you will be tired so double check

  10. #40
    Senior Member hachirusto's Avatar
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    Did this the otherday and the block of wood and hammer worked well getting the center out , got a quick question has anyone done this to a simmons wheel before , is it the same can they be sperated with the tyre still on, After doing the meshi thought id do it to the wheels on my car to give them a clean up
    Rust is a way of life

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