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Thread: Converting a 3sge to RWD

  1. #111
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    Yes, will relocate the oil filter in the bargain.

    You can fit the sump and pump together, but no one or the other alone. The beams sump has the pressure relief in it and the pump will just pump straight back into the sump if you don't use the beams sump.

    I went the other way, converted my gen3 gte (same setup as beams) to
    5sfe pump and 2s (modified) sump.

  2. #112
    Senior Member Anthony's Avatar
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    just make sure its an SXE10 or ST215 pump so it has the crank trigger divet to match the sump. normal gen 3 pump wont line up.

  3. #113
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    ok oil returns on the gen 2 motor side and back
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  4. #114
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    Hey Biggo i dont know whether your interested but im selling some Quads on a custom manifold to suit 3SGE Gen 2

    Just thought you might be interested

  5. #115
    Senior Member tin can's Avatar
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    whats the depth on a beams sump.

    e.g from the bottom of the block to the bottom of the sump.

    just want to see the diff from a 2s to a 3s beams

    cheers

  6. #116
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    16 cm give or take... its cold and dark
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

  7. #117
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    can someone tell me what this flange in the sump casting does on the half cut-off left hand side of this pic?

    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

  8. #118
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    never mind the post above, I found an old post that explains this is for the spring that controls the pressure releif of the oil pump, ie: dont mess with it
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

  9. #119
    Senior Member Anthony's Avatar
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    phew, i was having deja vu!

  10. #120
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    I work on a KE25/3S-GE car and currently have it all in bits again. It was running fine.

    It has a SW20 motor. SA63 belhousing and everything I think. The holes in the flywheel have been filed oval. A double row bearing was used in the crank. But there was limited movement for the clutch fork, and the owner filed out the hole in the belhousing a bit. Clutch was slipping a bit, not sure why.

    Not it's apart, we are going to try a normal spigot bearing, and are having the belhousing milled 6mm off the engine/belhousing surface. Im told another way to do this is just extend the clutch pivot about 6mm, which would be easier.

    Water system works but is a mess, so any more neat rear water pictures would be great.

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