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Thread: Converting a 3sge to RWD

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggo View Post
    Gen1 has one out let, they never came turbo so then never had the small hole which is the water feed for the turbo it think.
    Pretty sure the first celica GT4 (st165) was a turbo gen 1.

    The small and large outlet on the back of the gen 3 heads are incorporated into one outlet. The turbo line then comes off the that coolant "manifold".
    I have one in the shed if anyone wants a pic.

    The double row spigot is easy to find, just measure (from memory it's 36mm OD and 12mm ID) then go to your trusty bearing supplies and spend $45 bucks buying a 16mm wide double row ball race.
    Standard one is 9mm wide and under $10. This is what I have used. I had to machine the bell (-8mm front, -2mm rear) and reset the fulcrum ball for the clutch fork. I also had to extend the bearing slide.

    These last 2 things were done to push the clutch plate further onto the gearbox input shaft and may not have to
    be done on the gen 1 as the flywheel is more of a rwd profile.

    Slydar can confirm this though. He has first hand experience with the gen1.
    Last edited by af300e; 29th June 2009 at 02:22 AM.

  • #32
    Senior Member tin can's Avatar
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    Default starter

    hi all

    im doing this conversion at the moment just like to whats the best starter motor to use.

    ive tried a sv11 fits but fouls on the coloum.(pic below)

    im using a 3y bellhousing.
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    doesnt the bellhousing off the 2S engine hold the starter on the other side?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam-Q View Post
    doesnt the bellhousing off the 2S engine hold the starter on the other side?
    Yeah.

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    yeah its does but im using a 3y bellhousing because im going turbo. dont want the starter to get hot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tin can View Post
    yeah its does but im using a 3y bellhousing because im going turbo. dont want the starter to get hot.
    I've set up my gen3 turbo with 2s bell housing. I built a custom high mount turbo manifold so the starter is safe. Manifold and starter are wrapped. The dump pipe is far enough away from the clutch slave and the starter that it will cause no issues.

    There is more issue with the return lines on the water pump fouling on the starter than there is with exhaust heat.

    I know a workshop in Melbourne that has built a few (over 10) rwd 3s motors using 2s bells and the owner tells me that there has never been an issue with starters cooking.

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    understand wont have problems also i wanted to have my exhaust runners abit longer than normal and to do that needed stater on the otherside.

    i like the clutch master being on the inlet side also.

    have you got a pick of your exhaust manifold we could have a look at.

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    I'll get one happening for you. Give me a couple of days.

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    ill show you mine if you show me urs haha.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tin can View Post
    hi all

    im doing this conversion at the moment just like to whats the best starter motor to use.

    ive tried a sv11 fits but fouls on the coloum.(pic below)

    im using a 3y bellhousing.
    Am I correct in assuming that the KE70 and AE86 engine bay/cross member/steering rack etc are all exactly the same?

    I used the 3Y bellhousing in my car, yes it is fairly close to the steering rack but it fits....

    May I suggest looking at the mounting of the engine, as I can tell you it definately fits without any issues at all.

    Also, as stated, either the 3Y or 2S bellhousing can be used, the 3Y being the better of the two as the starter and clutch throw out are both out of the way on the inlet side of the engine, putting them on the other side is nothing but a pain in the arse with exhaust routing and heat issues, no matter if its NA or turbo....

    Water outlet at the back of the head is probably one of the easier fixes in the RWD conversion, simply have a plate laser cut using the gasket as a template and fab up some steel piping to run around the back of the head and back along under the inlet plenum to the front of the engine. Dizzy needs to have the cap removed (unless you want to butcher the firewall) and use the sensor as a CAS to trigger a direct fire igintion system (aftermarket ecu required). Some 3s blocks (cant remember exactly which ones) already have all necessary holes tapped into them to allow fitment of the 2s engine mounts. Mine (Gen2 gTe) didnt, I had to fab up a mount to pick up the nearest 4 holes. If you're lucky enough to have the 2s mounts bolt up to the 3s block, then its simply a matter of cutting the mounts off the cross member and rewelding them on to suit the 3s mounting. You can here adjust exactly how/where you want the 3s to sit in relation to the crossmember. Simply trim the mounts to get the engine sitting lower/closer to the cross member prior to rewelding them in place.

    It isnt really all that much of a difficult conversion. I honestly dont see why it isnt done more often. In my eyes, the only advantages an SR/CA conversion has over a 3s are the dizzy and water outlet issues dont exist.

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