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Thread: Converting a 3sge to RWD

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Medwin_3sGTE_AE86 View Post
    In my eyes, the only advantages an SR/CA conversion has over a 3s are the dizzy and water outlet issues dont exist.
    You're forgetting the clutch and intake manifold issues too.

    I think the reason that more people don't do the 3s conversions is access to fabrication tools/space/skills.

    I hear you though. If you have the ability to fabricate the required bits, the
    3s conversion is not all that difficult.

  • #42
    Senior Member Medwin_3sGTE_AE86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by af300e View Post
    You're forgetting the clutch and intake manifold issues too.
    Yeah sorry, intake manifold issues.... Seeing as alot of RWD converted 4ages are running around with cut and shut manifolds, I dont think it'd be too hard to do the same for a 3s. I didnt bother, I decided it would be easier to start from scratch.

    Clutch issues? I use a GT4 celica clutch, straight off the shelf, suits the W5* series box perfectly, no changing of anything. The Gen1 engine I have in my shed also uses this same spline for input to gearbox, so I imagine its the same through all of the 3s gens?

    Speaking of which, I have a heap of NA Gen 1 3sge parts (including a complete long motor in pieces needs new main bearings) sitting in my shed, a brand new PBR Clutch kit complete in box also if anyone is interested?! (Shameless plug lol)

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    I made my own intake too, but for those who don't have access to aluminium welding gear the costs quickly get nasty.
    Cut and shut is a no go because the gen 2 and 3 turbo manifolds are the rubbish inlet from the side design. The NA ones are different but the gen1 and 2 are the TVIS things which is a bit crap. In addition, the gen 1 manifold runners sweep back to the rear of the motor in RWD config and get super close if not against the firewall. The gen 3 one might be better, hard to find one though, only to discover it may/may not work.

    On mine (gen 3) the clutch plate only picked up about 20mm of a possible approx 30mm of input shaft when using the transverse (stock) flywheel. This meant i had to machine the bell housing and extend the bearing slide. That in turn meant extending the throwout fork ball to position the fork closer to the engine.

    The ring gear was too big for the starter to sit in the 2s bellhousing position so i made an adapter plate out of 6mm steel. That pushed the starter 6mm out of the ring gear when it engages so, I dismantled the starter, threw the front housing in the lathe and took off that 6mm. Reassembled the starter, bolted it all up and it turns the motor sweet as a nut!

    (All the above measurements are from memory so don't go using them before double checking.)

    I can understand why more people don't do 3s conversions. The fab is killer.
    Last edited by af300e; 30th June 2009 at 04:01 PM.

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    Default re: inlet

    regards to the inlet manifold i doind a cut and shut with a greddy s13 manifold, the part that's going to bolt to the head got machined up to suit the 3sgte (gen2).

    here have a look lets us now what you think.

    hope im not straying away from the topic.
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  • #45
    Senior Member Anthony's Avatar
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    Obviously the starter works on the exh side. look at the hundreds of 4AGTE's. The question is: why run the exh past the starter AND the clutch line and slave cyl if you dont have to?

    The starter's a maybe, the clutch is a no brainer.

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    af300e, sounds like some serious dicking around going on,

    to be honest, many things with the way i have done mine would normally be frowned at for various reasons, but if you came and saw my engine in the bay you would understand.

    Firstly, the reason i chose the gen3 3sgte was that it spools up uber early, makes a fair bit of torque early, and has basically no lag. For this reason, i didnt want to touch the inlet or the intercooler. As the stock 255hp is more than enough to begin with, and a simple boost increase and adaptronic will see me pushing uncontrollable power. I thought about turning my turbo around, so the inlet was on the radiator side and the exhaust on the firewall side, but by not doing so, i was able to move my engine much further back, and the dump pipe actually worked out really well. I would have had alot more trouble trying to get the dump pipe down and clear without doing serious stuff to the firewall. Also, would have meant new manifold, and new turbo. which may as well meant new inlet, and new intercooler.

    I used a 3/4y bell, with a 4afe starter, I modified the bellhousing to take the starter, and it works well, was only a small mod too.

    As for height with the intercooler on the top, my engine is low enough that its only going to take a small bulge in the bonnet to clear the intercooler, which isnt a problem at all really, and thats not taking into account the bonnet will probably be raised a little at the back so only a 10mm bulge.

    no intercooler means i have plenty of room up the front , no showy stuff for cops, less weight further forward, and the extra bonus of uber reliability of running basically a stock engine.

    clutch and flywheel is altezza, w box, spigot is in the flywheel, and all the clutch for and everything fit up perfectly.

    there is alot of fucking around with a 3s, not alot more than other engines, but significant i think. If i had my time again I would probably start with a beams and do a nice high mount turbo setup running low boost.
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    medwin how much do u want for that pbr clutch
    Last edited by AE71briskev; 30th June 2009 at 09:26 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by driftke70 View Post
    clutch and flywheel is altezza, w box, spigot is in the flywheel, and all the clutch for and everything fit up perfectly.
    That's a good idea right there that is.

    My intercooler is the stock jobbie too, just fitted as a front mount. It's black and invisible.
    The turbo is stock too.
    After going for a spin in a stock gen3 mr2, i didn't feel the need to mod it especially since i'm dropping at least 300kg on the mr2.
    Plus, i have to keep the motor stock to avoid having it EPA tested at $1500 a throw.

    Tincan, manifold looks good. Mine sits higher than that because i used the stock runners and to clear the water line that goes to the back of the head.
    In retrospect i think mine is going to be a little too big, with runners a bit too short but, i always intended it to be experimantal, so we'll see how it goes.
    Last edited by af300e; 1st July 2009 at 01:09 AM.

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    didnt know mr2 came with gen 3
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    Gen 3 NA mr2's were australian delivered, gen 3 3sgte MR2 was available in Japan.
    The one I refer to was a gen 2 gte import that had a gen 3 from a half cut put in.

    The Gen 3 for my build came out of an MR2 halfcut.

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