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Thread: wheel alignment setups

  1. #11
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    Toe out ftw.


    ~1mm overall toe out
    -2.5 camber
    +3.5-4 caster
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

  2. #12
    Veteran trikzlane's Avatar
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    im a wheel aligner so on my car so i run;
    Toe; +0.5 on each side = 1mm
    Camber; -2.0 thanks to xt130 LCA's
    Castor; +2.7 on the left and +2.6 on the right, as the left should always be higher
    ~KEEP DRIFTING FUN~

  3. #13
    Senior Member shawn_26's Avatar
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    Ok, apologise in advance for long post.

    Im new to this wheel alignment bizzo. Im going in for a wheel alignment next week to get the car ready for drift prac. Will have new RCA's and rack ends, as well as rack bushes. Can someone reccomend me some alignment specs? I have no idea what I should request.

    Basically my car has coilover front with Camber tops, TRD rears with 6kg springs, Selbys rear swaybar, and is sacked on its arse. Will have AJPS panhard rod in next week. All control arms are standard.

    What can I, and what cant I get adjusted? Can the rear end be adjusted? Or just the front? I guess I want it set up pretty slippery to begin with, as It will pretty much be my first time sliding the Hachi on track. What specs would you guys reccomend to get it sliding well?

    And call me a douche, but every time Ive gone for a wheel alignment in my other cars, Ive dropped it off and said: "gimme a wheel alignment". I had no idea I could request my own specs lol. Do I just hand the bloke a peice of paper and say: "align to these specs".

    Sorry for the epic post.
    Last edited by shawn_26; 28th May 2009 at 07:31 PM.

  4. #14
    Veteran bigm's Avatar
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    Typical Wheel alignment for drift seems to be


    -3 Degree Camber
    Stock Castor Rods Maxxed out
    0mm Toe or 1mm total out (.5 Each side)

    You wont be able to change how slipperly your car is because of the basic rear end set up, it depends on your diff angle and this is changed by adjustable rear arms which you didnt list as having, and not worth it if you are learning.

    So set it something like that and see how you go. should do the trick.

  5. #15
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    As above, the front end setup with determine how darty and chuckable the car is.

    set around -2.5 camber
    0 toe
    and +3.5 castor.

    Just hand the dude a card with it written on haha thats what i do.

    "ohh you want it set up for some hairy driving"

    Had that before.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

  6. #16
    Veteran Kid Karola's Avatar
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    Touge-Track: front & rear coilovers, 30mm RCA, traction brackets, rose-jointed rear links and front end.

    -2.25 Camber
    +4 Castor
    2mm Toe-out
    RokuSteady : Shakotan - Tsuraichi - Hippari - Onikyan : 神奈川 様式

  7. #17
    Veteran Kid Karola's Avatar
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    Also was just watching HotVersion AE86Club as you do on a lazy sunday afternoon,

    Keiichi Tsuchiya's HotVersion TRD Trueno

    -2.31 Camber
    +4.05 Castor
    0mm Toe

    (About 3:30min into Vol 8.)
    RokuSteady : Shakotan - Tsuraichi - Hippari - Onikyan : 神奈川 様式

  8. #18
    Glenn ke_70's Avatar
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    going for a wheel alighnment soon how much adjustment does the stock ke70 castor arms hav? does it change with stock and rona lcas
    cheers

    and is that coz of the slope in the road?
    Last edited by ke_70; 15th June 2009 at 06:23 PM.

  9. #19
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    stock rods have about 3.5 degrees in them.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

  10. #20
    Senior Member crackett's Avatar
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    Yeah, because of the road camber more castor is on the left to stop the car pulling. Max out your rods, it's amazing how different a Corolla feels with it done!
    Traction and me, were not meant to be...

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