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Thread: DrawThrough turbo selection

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Joshua
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    Unhappy

    First off i don't need to hear "draw through is gay, blah blah blah"

    Currently I have a 3tc running a Stromberg into a gt2052 turbo off of a td05 landcruiser.

    The turbo has a t25 flange as far as I'm aware, however the flange looks triangular.

    [attachment=286127136227r.jpg]

    The turbo sucks a lot of oil the way it is currently installed. As far as i can tell you cannot get a Carbon seal for this turbo so i cannot solve the problem that simply.
    I am assuming that the main cause of the oil is because of the seal, however i think the oil setup may contribute to the problem.
    The oil intake line is tee'd from the oil pressure sender straight into the turbo. The return at the moment is then down into the dipstick hole. I think this may be causing some back pressure in the oil lines.
    I will get around to welding in a sump plug shortly.

    Basically my question is that if the above doesn't fix most of my oil burning problems, can anyone suggest a replacement turbo.

    I think I am looking for something with a t25 flange or the same as I'm currently running, Preferably with the intake pointing upwards to reduce intake length.
    It also must have a carbon seal or have a kit available to put one in.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?

  2. #2
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    Andrew
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    Default

    nice set up mate, any idea how much power its pulling?

    you can move around the front compressor wheel to point straight up to reduce the intake length( no need for new turbs then)
    Are you running water injection on it?

    I also ran my oil return into dip stick and it built up too much pressure for the seal, then it would by pass the seal. would highly recommend to do one into sump.

    And the turbo you have is not a t25 flange, but you can run IHI turbos wich are far cheaper. Get one of a late model subaru and should bolt straight up. And are a decent size.

    Aaron

  3. #3
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    Get a cheap (ie $50+) t25g from ns.com

    They have rebuild kits available with ceramic seals for $110ish on ebay

    You can 'clock' the housings (rotate) on most turbos to suit your setup.

    Drawthroughs are good,cheap power if you can fabricate yourself.

    I loved mine- 4ac twin 1.75" strombergs tco6-11























    drawthrough setups ARE gay :whistling:

  4. #4
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AE86-13B.B.P. @ Jul 21 2008, 08:14 PM) </div>Hey thanks man. can't take the credit for it unfortunately.

    Will get it on the dyno when it's not causing global warming as much.

    Was thinking about clocking it but i'm new to turbo's so I don't know how hard it will be.

    Thanks for confirming my theory on the oil back pressure. Will fab an oil return up this weekend and let you know how it goes.

    I know garrett turbos are a little overpriced but there is plenty of info on them and parts are easy to get.

  5. #5
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AE86AL @ Jul 21 2008, 08:16 PM) </div>Nice, god the strombergs are so much better than the aisan shit. No vac lines. :2thumbs:

    Yeah everyone seems to go the t25g so that might be the go.

    Will have to get a new flange welded or get a stainless from the USA.

    Will probably do that if my tweaks don't improve my situation.

    Cheers

  6. #6
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    I used the steel from a spare brake caliper mount from a t18 (same as sprinter)

    Chopped the tags(actual caliper mounts) and reamed the holes with a die grinder.

    Remember these are cheap setups, if you purchase too many parts you'll end up feeling like a tool and your mates will hack on you!

  7. #7
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    Right.

    Welded in a sump plug and fixed a few other things but the damn thing still chews silly amounts of oil.

    Next step i think is a new turbo with a positive seal.

    I can get a t25 relatively cheap and rebuild kits with the carbon seal cheap also.

    My question is does a t25 rebuild kit fit all T25 turbos?

  8. #8
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    Just had another thought.

    I have an idea of running a secondary throttle body after the turbo that is linked to the first throttle body in the carby.

    This would mean that on closure of the butterfly the high vacuum would exist between the intake side of the head and the secondry butterfly. This would in theory mean that the turbo would never see high vacuum and in turn would not leak oil like it is at the moment.

    Can anyone poke holes in my theory??

  9. #9
    gunbz-r
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    if its popped seals, it needs to be built, it will continue to leak.

    to fit a secondary throttle, the way you have described it, you will need to vent the chamber your making. Which would be venting atomised fuel into the bay or intake pipe (not good), or without it will push through the turbo and back out the carb, which would be messy to. I could be wrong, but I wouldn't take the risk.

  10. #10
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    It's a dynamic seal which doesnt cope with the high vacuum that draw through setups create.

    I'm not sure which chamber you're talking about (after the turbo, or before and including the turbo) but i don't see why it would need to be vented. There is normally 20psi worth of negative pressure in the manifold without the turbo and the turbo chamber should be -5ish psi.

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