SR20 into KE70

[red_gem]

I'm sorry. i know you blokes hate this and its my first post and whatnot. i have done my reaserch but am just a bit unclear on 1 or 2 points.

ok so i have 1xke70 4k auto etc.
1xsr20det motor box, loom ecu etc.

i have the wiring, tailshaft, basic understanding of the clutch setup sorted.

all i want to know is,

ive heard about "just use rb20 engine mounts" in my 4k powererd ke the mounts look in a very strange position. just checking that this method is indeed for a ke70 and not an ae86/71 etc.

also would i be best off running a nissan slave with custom line to master? will they work ok together? I'm sort of trying to throw it all together asap so want to have all the major details sorted first. also what diff options do i have? maybe an ae86 rear end with 2way etc?

i am sorry if they have been answered I'm a nissan/gemini man who has recently aquired an e70 and just wanna make it move a bit. cheers for not flamin me!

[Sherlock]

Hey Adam its Sherlock, Tunneys mate, the one that had that dumped as Cressida

A lot of people cut and shut there own Engine cross members using the SR mounts as far as I know, here's a link to a guy that has recently done it:


Also with diffs, Hilux diffs are commonly used, also if you can get your hands on it, an E series or F series diff out of a Tarago can be used with minimal mods to it. Using an 86 diff with LSD might not be strong enough behind an SR20DET and would be expensive if you had to replace it a few times

Welcome to the site, Keep this thread helpful people!

[Driftspec]

I hate to point this out.. but this was a couple of posts above your question:



Into a KE70 is different, I know, but there should be a bit of general info that should be useful in getting it sorted.

Hope it helps!

[red_gem]

no dramas mate. i have had a browse through there. I'm more interested in the mounting of the motor using this rb20 mount thing. if anyone knows that would be great

[red_gem]

come on people. all i want to know is this mounting procedure. then ill let the thread die and we can all forget about it. cheers

[sr_rolla]

no idea, just buy some and see, they can't be that expensive 2nd hand from a jap importer.

with the nissan slave/toyota master, it works fine, thats what i run.

[slydar]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (red_gem @ Aug 25 2008, 09:51 PM) </div>you use rb engine mounts because theyre compatible with the sr brackets/4a x member, and are much stronger than the sr oil filled items.
you will still definitely have to re position mounts on the x member or modify/fabricate engine brackets. this is a given with a conversion.

with a 86/71 x member, using standard sr mounts (as they have alot of flex) the engine will drop onto the x member if you slot the brackets on the x member a little deeper. sr mounts are notoriously fragile even when used properly so mounting the engine in this way is pretty retarded.

the toyota clutch mc will work fine with the sr slave. you want a t18 and jdm ae86 hard line, or just make one that goes down the drivers side. youre like to be able to just use either of the standard flex lines from the sr or you ke, or 2 ke ones joined together.

diff for an sr. just seach diff options in tech, its a whole nother seperate topic.

stock is borg. getting your tail shaft made to work with this diff would be silly. welded the strenght is ok, as its the planentary gears that are the weakest link. but not many ratios and not that strong.

stock adm ae86 is S series. would be an ok stop gap if you planned to run T series and the flange is the same and tailshaft length will still work with a 1pc as there is a fair amount of travel in the slip yoke.

T (t18/jdm ae86) well serviced(by a professional), with an lsd (not a locker) this is borderline usevable depending on driving style. having said that, a mate brett used to run one, and used to get about 1.5 drift days out of one before he broke an axle. if its just a time attack type car, (not drift) its worth considering.

E series. from toyota vans. no lsd available. lots of ratios, pretty strong, comes in useful widths and stud pattern. still needs brackets changed. kinda the cheap, decent strength option, but no lsds. cheap replacement parts too.

F, some tarago, and other rarer old toyotas have these in 4x114.3. unbreakable, heaps of ratios, any lsd you want. the tarago type adds at least 30mm to track. on a ke this will make it even harder to fit some nice dishy wheels.

g, hilux. too heavy. not available in 4x114. strong, but f is strong enoughm for anyone except made an all out drag car. so its pointless. still lots of ratios and any lsd you want. is available in slightly narrower that stock width.