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Thread: 20v alternator problem

  1. #1
    Senior Member Instigator's Avatar
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    Default 20v alternator problem


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    Hi guys,

    Just recently finished the 20v conversion in my AE95 and having some problems.

    Not being very experienced with this sort of thing I had friends helping me and when it came time to grind the block the alternator was still connected to the motor and got covered in metal filings. I blew it out with the compressor as best I could.

    The car is together and was running but I have no battery light on the dash. I'm pretty confident the wires were hooked up properly.

    I took it for a test drive last night and got about 5 minutes down the road before the headlights and dash lights all went really dim and the car cut out and wouldn't start again.

    Does this sound as if it is definately the alternator that's bunk?

    Can I get a brand new one from Toyota for a S/T 20v from an AE101?

    Can the current one be repaired? I have a workshop manual showing how to dissassemble it.

    If not where could I get one new or second hand? Preferably in the next few days...

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Senior Member 350hp4agte's Avatar
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    underwood
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    i would say for sure its your alternator best way to check is to get a volt meter start the car give it some rev's and see if the volts go up should go to around 14v

    failing that pull the thing off drop it to an auto sparky get it rebuilt probably around $100

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    Veteran Nikkojoe's Avatar
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    I would first check the output of the alternator compared with the voltage at the battery. At the bolt on strap it should be 13V min to 14V at idle. If this is the case and the battery side is 12V or less, then you mostlikely have a problem with the wiring (could still be faulty alternator though).

    IMO its likely the wiring is not right. What wires on the 20valve plug did you match up to the ae95 wiring harness?
    1983 AE86 ADM rust spec goodness track car build - end of the road
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    Senior Member Instigator's Avatar
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    There were 4 wires on the two extra plugs that reside alongside the ECU ones that went to body stuff in the ae101 (dash lights etc)

    I used Kevin from Toymods table: -



    For a 4agze but the colours were the same on the 20v.

    I have working currently: -

    Oil pressure lamp
    Engine temp gauge

    I worked out which wire in the car was the battery light one by testing it with the oil pressure wire on the loom which made the batt light up come on the cluster. I then hooked it up to the matching wire on the loom.
    Last edited by Instigator; 22nd May 2009 at 01:16 PM.

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    Have you checked the wires on the plug of the alternator?

    1 of them is definately correct (engine check lamp).

    The others that need checking are (on the plug of alternator):
    Black with yellow trace - Ignition (12V on ignition)
    White - Sense (this goes to the battery).

    Bolt on strap - This goes to the battery.

    I know these are the colours on an ae92 loom. Im not sure how you have wired the ae101 loom to the ae95.
    1983 AE86 ADM rust spec goodness track car build - end of the road
    1984 AE86 Silver ADM mk2 daily build - SOLD
    1984 AE86 ADM granny car daily now 4AGZE - SOLD
    1983 AE86 ADM Engine Conversion Slut - SOLD
    2002 IS200 6spd - new daily in progress
    1986 AE86 JDM GT-Apex Levin Notchback ready to roll......

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    Nah I didn't think I needed to as I didn't disconnect anything from the alternator, it came out of the halfcut and went into mine with everything still connected.

    All that was wired was the engine loom into the body fusebox, and a few wires inside the car.

    Thanks for the advice I'll check those out tonight

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    Fixed and back on the road

    Was some wires to the alternator that weren't wired up properly. Also got the reverse lights working and thermos switching off with the keys (still come on and stay on with ignition though).

    No biggies at least I'm moving again, will sort the thermos out when I get 20v and AE95 workshop manuals and do the aircon wiring.

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