where in SA? prefer southern suburbs or close to city
where to get rotors machined & brakes bled?
where in SA? prefer southern suburbs or close to city
also, what is a good price for brake bleed ?
thanks guys
lol at white people in japan. just lol.
SA brake & clutch 118 Sturt St,
DO NOT GO TO THESE GUYS
Possibly the worst people ive ever had to deal with, they serviced the brakes on my Peugeot 205 GTi, for its regency clearance, went to regency, the car didnt pass due to brake biass, went back and explained to them so they fitted 4 new rotors and pads, without my permission, then claimed they are working perfectly, took the car back to regency and they failed again, went back 3rd time, and complained the guy started swearing at me in front of dad saying i should never have brought this piece of shit into his workshop, and that peugeots are a waste of his valuable time (i am also awear of this lol) and as i drove off he kicked a dent in my 1/4 panel,
his insurance premium should be a little higher than usual now
Pm Cracker/Slippry/Dan the Man, he works at a brake joint on the parade, just tell him who you are, im sure he would be happy to help you out
its in the city
This.
You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?
Get a mate + 10mm ring spanner and bleed your brakes yourself:
1. Get mate to press the brake pedal a few times then hold it flat.
2. Open bleed valve on one brake (using 10mm ring spanner), let any air and fluid come out,
3. Tighten bleed valve (whilst your mate's foot is flat on the brake pedal). T
4. Get mate to pump the brake pedal a few more times then hold down.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 until only nice clean fluid comes out (no air bubbles)
6. Do steps 1-5 for all four brakes if necessary for a complete bleed
Make sure in this process that you have ample fluid in the reserviour, otherwise you will get more air into the brake lines.
For the fronts, often you don't even need a mate to pump the pedal. Simply open the bleed valve until only fluid comes out. The weight of the fluid above the brakes will push any air out in the lines.
Process is the same for a hydraulic clutch.
+1 All crutch and bake for machining
AE86 4AGE "Slowly but surely"
Always do all 4, doing just one is silly.
The pumping method is good, but flushing your brake fluid through is a good idea. If your fluid is rooted (has too much water content) then you'll have a good pedal if you do the pump and release - until it boils. Flush it through (~10 pumps / corner with bleed valve open), close it, THEN do the pump it up and release.
Also when bleeding brakes, on 90% of cars, you bleed the caliper / cylinder furthest away from the brake master first and work your way towards it. LHR, RHR, LHF, RHF.
You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?
Only if you have made some changes to all the brakes. If you change your pads on the fronts there is very very little chance you will get air into your rear lines.
It is good preventative maintenance to flush all your brake fluid every 12 months. Brake fluid degrades over time in use due to shearing and heat and you also get contaminents that build up over time that degrades pistions.
Often a good flush on an old car can really improve the pedal feel and braking response.
AE86 4AGE "Slowly but surely"
Recently upgraded to 31 brakes on my stanza so naturally I had to bleed the brakes (did it today).
Doing all four is a MUST, particularly if there is alot of air in the line. As Javal has said bleed the brake with the longest line first which will generally be in the LHR, RHR, LHF, RHF (as javal has also suggested). Make sure fluid in the reservior is always more than half full aswell. There may also be a bleed valve on the reservior itself which may need bleeding.
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