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Thread: 4AGE cams......choices, dyno results and discussions!!!

  1. #161
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    My 4agte makes 270rwkw with trd 272 deg 7.9mm lift cams on 22psi of boost. They're dialed in at 98 deg intake, 101 exhaust. Generally with turbo, higher lift with lower duration is preferred. The lower duration helps with low end turbo spool.

    The next motor will have 272 deg 10.2mm lift. I did actually want to go 264 11mm but the ramp rate of the cams would've destroyed the buckets and cams very quickly. Head needs clearancing to run cams with that lift and under buckets. Oddly, kelford recommends 108 deg intake and 116 deg exhaust for this cam combo. I'll see how they run on dyno as my understanding was 272s should be close to 100 @ top dead.


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    4agte finally finished. 252rwkw with more to come

  2. #162
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    Running toda 264 7.9mm lift. 175rwkw @ 13psi
    On stock was 164rwkw at 18psi.
    It way falling flat in the top end, so after lots of research on the evo forums, found this to be the best solution.
    Also fitted new toda valve springs in the process.
    Toda advised me to time it according to the cam cards supplied.
    It now takes on a new lease on life after about 6k.
    It still has a bit of a lump, and idles at 1000rpm (1000cc injectors too). On e85 its a bit of an animal. 195rwkw on 13psi.
    FYI, it is smallport gze bottom and top except for valve train mods and a few extra tweaks.
    Td05hra-15gk-10.5t from a 6.5 TME.
    Evos punch in excess of 270 @ wheels on >30psi with this turbo, but I am not that game.
    Big up's for the North East Massiv'
    NSATB - New Skids Around The Block

  3. #163
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    i reckon cams should always be timed on the dyno, cam card specs are good to start with but they really need to be dialed in on the dyno then tested on the road/track, and setup by some one that isnt just into peak numbers.i had a dyno guy mess with my cam timing and was happy he got 400 odd at wheels with my 4a. but when i drove it,it was doughy as. he advanced the inlet way to much and it sucked. i retarded the inlet and it went much better, way more grunt down low. my peak hp is prolly down 15+hp but mid range is tonnes better. and with the size of my turbo and size of cams, i really need to mid range to pick up as fast as it can, as i have no low end at all. 23psi on pump fuel. going e85 this time with a few new parts and block as it spread the bores into the water galleries.

  4. #164
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    I totally agree with timing it on the dyno, to your own driving style. Just haven't had a chance to get back for another touch up tune
    Big up's for the North East Massiv'
    NSATB - New Skids Around The Block

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    Excellent feedback guys, and quick too.
    I am in the process researching/gathering info and parts to build up an AE101 16V GZE smallport motor into 4AGTE.
    300+hp would be incredible, hell, I'd be pleased with 1 bar pushing 220-250hp at the wheels.
    I have a set of Toda 272 7.9 on hand, and they shall be used.
    Thanks for the info.
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 12th December 2015 at 05:38 PM.

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    Highly recommend changing to toda valve springs if you haven't already done so. Then fit the cams. Keep us updated on your progress
    Big up's for the North East Massiv'
    NSATB - New Skids Around The Block

  7. #167
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Can you please explain why you highly recommend this?
    Excuse my ignorance on this matter, I thought Valve spring upgrades were mainly for high lift, 8.5-11mm, applications to prevent binding.

    I only want to run 12-14psi, but if and unopened GZE with a SC14 pushed to 12psi works all day every day, why is there a necessity to upgrade?
    What is the OEM fail point?

    I have been looking at both the TODA uprated springs and their shim under bucket conversion.
    The springs alone were cheap enough.
    Do you mean the shim under bucket conversion?

  8. #168
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    Take a look at supertech gear as well if looking at underbuckets.

    Valve spring upgrades are recommended, firstly due to the age of the existing springs. Heat cycling them will eventually fatigue the metal and possibly lead to failure. If adding boost as well, the pressure to close the valves will increase. If the motor has low kms, you might get away with it but for the $200, it's a cheap upgrade.


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    4agte finally finished. 252rwkw with more to come

  9. #169
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    Information regarding boosted 4ag engines is very limited, almost to the extent of lack of experience,knowledge or individuals not disclosing information (black magic or dark art? I think not). When I started my project most turbo 4ag were utilizing t25/28 or in rare cases td04 wrx turbo. 98% of cases I researched were running stock valve train.
    This made me broaden my research scope to a similar engine, the humble 4g63. Cam tests back to back was available including duration and lift. Most cases the springs were replaced with aftermarket items. This motion was highly supported by my tuner, largely because of valve float not seating under high boost conditions.
    This was featured in my original tune where power dipped in the upper rev range but not due to turbo efficiency, lack of fuel or spark, or exhaust movement (choking).
    I did have valve springs sitting on the shelf, but looking back at it I think I would have changed them in any case.
    Big up's for the North East Massiv'
    NSATB - New Skids Around The Block

  10. #170
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    Unless ya have big lift or turning ya motor to 9k. I wouldn't waste money on them toda under bucket shims. Then you have to pay some one to set them up. If they dont supply the right shims, then they have to grind valve stems.
    i just built a motor with them and i think he wasted money on that toda setup when the money could have been better spent else where.
    uprated springs for sure. Ya running boost now so boost on the back of the valve is going to counter seat pressure.

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