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Thread: 4AGE cams......choices, dyno results and discussions!!!

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    Default 4AGE cams......choices, dyno results and discussions!!!


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    Hey,

    Just wanted to know what sort of different head work needs to be done for running a set of 264 cams and a set of 272 cams.

    Thanks
    Last edited by slide86; 13th June 2009 at 08:16 PM.

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    I'm assuming into a 4AGE 16v. It should bolt straight in. You may need to convert to under bucket shims if lift is greater than about 8-8.5mm. Above 10mm and you'll start hitting the head/block studs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adam View Post
    I'm assuming into a 4AGE 16v. It should bolt straight in. You may need to convert to under bucket shims if lift is greater than about 8-8.5mm. Above 10mm and you'll start hitting the head/block studs.
    wont bolt straight in as such. you will need to get your valves setup for the cams (changing the shims for the appropriate shims). same deal as adjusting the tappets on older engines.

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    yeah sorry its for a 4age 1.6l.

    so no upgrading valve springs and valves also?

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    get upgraded springs for sure

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    Have run standard shim and spring setup on 263 8.35mm lift cams for over 5+ years. Never an issue. I do have a box of Toda vavle springs but never got around to putting them in.

    When putting cams in, a de-dagging of the head is a good start if not porting the head. Cam gears also great idea to dial them in.

    A re-shim is MANDATORY, but is piss easy if you've got a spare head (or just spare shims). Just follow the factory book on how to do.

    The true technical answer is that the ramp rate of the cam is critical in determining if the cam will spit a shim. Lift will cause spring binding, float and fatigue. The lay-mans answer is that if you buy from reputable brand, under 8.5mm lift, you won't have any major issues.

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    above post explains it all really.

    the wade in my last motor were 277 (advertised) with 8.66mm lift.

    i simply asked for the biggest cams the stock lifters/springs could handle.

    so... "normal" (lift) 272/264 will be fine with stock parts. if its a high k engine you might want new springs. just stock or hks which are also cheap. theres also a local supplier (qld based) thats meant to be good and cheap. if you google youll find them.

    1 tip. set the last with the engine out if you can. on a slammed ae86s, its a fuct job bending over measuring etc...
    78's

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    jaz ae86- your doing well, 5 years is amazing seeming everyone reckons you need slight mods.

    jaz what do you reckon if you were to go for 272 with 8.3ish lift? Reputable brand also.

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    With 272 you HAVE to have adj cam gear. I tried running 272 (like 6yrs ago) on rest stock motor and it was not enjoyable. I took them out 24hrs later as the cam timing was woeful on stock cam wheels and would not idle/rev well. 6-8000 was awesome but not streetable as I was done on OVERALL power despite a higher peak power. You can run 272 like many have but you really want a tidy motor. Compression should be around 10.5 as you will have lower dynamic compression with bigger cams. So smallport or thin head gasket on bigport.

    264 are a good street cam. I run mine around 110/110 as per TODA recommendation lobe centre NA and found the pick up and power was good.

    8.35mm lift is what TODA/HKS make cams in. They know their shit, and don't pluck number for fun. They know what works!

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    What's the limit of the standard ECU when it comes to cam duration/lift?
    Does the AFM version of the 4AG (say, from an AW11) any better or worse for non-standard cams?

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