Reply With Quoteyeh, toe out + camber = fucked tyres.
but anyway, after lowering my coilies the other day (I now have 50mm of clearance to the ground)
i need another alignment.
i will be going with the following specs:
-2.5 camber
5.5+ caster
0mm toe
What a lot of people think is 'camber wear' is probably exacerbated a lot by toe out. But 3.5 degrees is ridiculous for a street car, I really doubt you'd often load it up enough to use the tyre footprint. Half that is plenty!
Less camber, closer to 0 toe, more castor is a better setup IMO.
yeh, toe out + camber = fucked tyres.
but anyway, after lowering my coilies the other day (I now have 50mm of clearance to the ground)
i need another alignment.
i will be going with the following specs:
-2.5 camber
5.5+ caster
0mm toe
I really rate toe out
0 toe makes the steering feel a bit vague i reckon
At the expense of tyre wear obviously
yeah this is the first time ive gone for 0 toe
just has no turn in, feels alittle bit floaty until castor kicks in
feels alot safer up at 160 in the hills now though
Yeah I like the turn in feel of a bit of toe out, but the tyre wear tradeoff is massive really when you crank it up and twitchy isn't the best, its worse with bigger wheels and wider rubber too.
Does anyone know what the relation for caster to length the LCA is brought foward is?
Eg. The LCA is 20mm foward of it being at 0 caster would equate to...?
Just trying to find out how much I can run without cutting my guards before I take it to get an alignment.
Just tell them to wind it forward till they hit the guards, then back a couple of turns? (or in my case, leave it touching the guards)
That's not really that helpful as I can do that at home. I am also trying to leave room for suspension movement and doing it with droop only atm as well.
How do you guys find the lots of caster? I assume most are running no PS - does it get very heavy to steer?
Cheers, plohl
its heavy, but you get used to it (ive got quick rack and locked diff too)
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