Reply With QuoteMoved to correct section.
4agze mods and which blower
Hey guys I'm building a 4agze and trying to get the most of it as possible!
Things I'm doing
Forged bottom end
Matched ported
Over-sized valves
Valve springs
Cams 270 degree think
Shim under buckets
Non tvis manifold
Na sr20 throttle body
Lager crank pulley
STD injector
Afm ecu
Think that it, anyway my questions is has anyone done stuff like this before? Where did the throttle body go? Before or after the blower? Read that after can cause damage to the paddle shafts, any truth to this?? The sc14 can that take the same psi as the sc12(safe 13-14 psi)
Cheers guy!!
Moved to correct section.
You won't need shim underbuckets for 270 Cams
MOPAR or no car!
why would you want to use an AFM ECU? and if you do, you will need to get the corresponding TPS plug and rewire it to the loom. A GZE TPS wont fit on a sr20 throttle body.
An sc14 can spin upto 18psi.......its not the pressure its the FLOW that is increased.......
Bear in mind that pumping 13psi out of an sc12 isnt efficient. So you will just cause epic amount of heat soak and cause damage to the blower. You are better of pumping 12psi out of an sc14, as it wont be working as hard and will actually be beneficial to the performance of the engine at the same manifold pressure.
If you are using an 'non tvis' manifold, i gather you mean smallport, then you wont be using an AFM ecu, as smallports are map sensor (much better setup IMO) To get the most out of the engine, you should really go to an aftermarket ECU. You will quickly hit the limit of the standard ECU, specially at those boost levels.
here are a few pics of my attempt at RWD setup.......i worked on it for a while, then went "fuck it" and just bought a stomper turbo setup.
Depends on lift.
Yes smallport. Yer afm to me means aftermarket. So yes running ps1000.
As for the cam specs can put them up later when I get home. Cam tec said they are for forced induction, so I hope all goes well.
Any reason for that list? It seems a little random. What's your aim?
And a few comments:
Forged bottom end - Not needed on a GZE. They are forged and essentially indestructible from the factory if you keep a sensible rev limit. And with an SC you don't need to be non-sensible.
Matched ported
Over-sized valves - Check if they are needed/will help for your setup.
Valve springs - Again check if they are required. Don't change them unless you have to. Generally only needed if cam lift or revs increase alot.
Cams 270 degree think - Have a read around and see what size fits your plans.
Shim under buckets - COLOR="#0000FF"]Not needed.[/COLOR]
Non tvis manifold
Na sr20 throttle body - Why not 4AGE throttle? It'll bolt to your manifold.
Lager crank pulley - Good idea.
STD injector - Should do.
Afm ecu - No. If you're going aftermarket ECU then ditch the AFM.
Think that it, anyway my questions is has anyone done stuff like this before? Where did the throttle body go? Before or after the blower? Read that after can cause damage to the paddle shafts, any truth to this?? The sc14 can that take the same psi as the sc12(safe 13-14 psi)
I ran an SC14 and cut and shut smallport manifold on a GZE with a 4AGE throttle post SC. I had a big blow-off valve installed and things sounded ridiculous but worked OK. However I have driven the car very little since (moved overseas). The SC14 was making 16psi and I doubt that will ever cause problems. I think I posted some pics of this setup before on here. You may find them with a search.
Also there are some good chats about ZE options on Toymods. Some posters to look out for are "nick.parker" and... can't remember much more but they'll turn up.
The place I got. My cam though spoke direct to camtech came, they said that the can will do good for what I want.
lift at can 342° intake and exhaust duration 270°. Camtech said to use high rate springs.
Bottom end, her sure from factory its strong but know the K's so a freshon up wouldn't hurt. I'm thought are that a pretty good NA motor would suit the blower set up, the only thing is the cams but they are easy to change.
As for the throttle body what's an extra 5mm going to do? They can check that the throttle body isn't to big when its on the dyno if it is then I'll change it. I have spent so much cash on this car its crazy what's testing and swapping parts over!
I recently did a full rebuild of my ze to similar specs you are describing, (sort of).
We did alot of port work on my head, bottom end was rebuilt using standard rods/pistons, race bearing's, rings etc, my engine builder was very impressed with the stock toyota gear so we mostly stuck with that.
I used big port cams (tiny bit more duration/lift), re-used the valve springs (engine builder didnt see a need to upgrade).
I also went down the sc14 path, found a good one and started to look at how to set it up properly, long story short after alot of looking and planning I decided that after a full rebuild with all the effort going into the motor I may as well go turbo now and utilize all the engine potential.
IMO go turbo, there are so many cheap options out there as far as pretty much bolt on 4a turbo kits go.
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