Pretty sure it is a standard 20v cable.
This is going to be the page for all questions on put 20V throttles onto a 16V.
First question is what throttle cable is used with a T3 manifold?
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Pretty sure it is a standard 20v cable.
standard 20v cable? as what's normally used- a ke70?
I just thought it might be different with the throttles upside down and all.
My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts
- SQ Engineering on facebook -
Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.
A list of everything required and approximate costs would be a good resource for many to refer too.
I have to do the conversion soon so I can fill on most of the details when done
My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts
- SQ Engineering on facebook -
Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.
Jap 86 cable works aswell
Midnight Madness inc
Mines using a ke70 throttle cable
is it true the factory ecu can not run them?what other mods are needed for quads to be a worth while upgrade?cams and computer?
Cams and aftermarket standalone computer is recommended if you actually want a difference.
If you just want show factor for mad jdm blowies a stock ecu will run em with a vac chamber but most people i have seen do this experience fucked fuel economy and a poor running car....
Im pretty sure this has been covered, bt would be good to have all the info in one place.
Stock ae86 throttle cable will work, but will be slightly long. Doesnt have too many kinks to create too much friction though.
There is no decent form of idle control except for adjusting the throttles when theyre closed. You could also run the 20v ISCV from a vacuum chamber to effectively create a vacuum leak to increase the idle when cold. I put in an adjustable valve to give a manual choke for me to adjust idle depending on temperature etc..
The T3 manifold adapter will not work with a fwd water neck without modification. Im pretty sure rwd water neck clears, the bypass pipe from the fwd inlet could be blocked off/welded up and it would clear.
The vacuum ports given on the T3 adapter work fine for the brake booster, they dont need to be enlarged like everyone says. The 20v vacuum ports on the throttle bodies do not give enough vacuum under throttle to boost the brakes, even with a vacuum canister. I think they only work under closed throttle, not sure what kind of reading they give if hooked up to a map sensor???
You may want bigger ports if youre using an ISCV.
Hooking up all 4 nipples from the T3 adapter to a vacuum canister is recommended. Makes vacuum lines neater and easier to trace. Plus balances out the vacuum signals etc..
You can run an aftermarket FPR with no vacuum lines hooked up to it.
An aftermarket ecu will make the conversion alot simpler. No cold start to worry about, no AFM etc..
If using a T3 adapter I would recommend match porting the head, and cleaning up the inside of the adapter at the very least. It is slightly bigger than the ports in the head, and CNC cut, so all the internal edges are fairly sharp.
If I think of more I will post them up...