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Thread: 2AZ powered 86

  1. #21
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Gravedig my own thread.

    I had a really good day playing with this today. I got a 3y bellhousing to play with.

    I think it suits better, It puts the starter on the inlet side as well as the slave, and fork, so header clearance is improved on the left.

    I modified the 2azfe block and the y bellhousing to match, I just picked the 4 best spots to drill and tap and managed to make quite a solid union. So thats' step one, motor and box together. There are 2 studs on the bellhousing that line up and centre perfectly, so its pretty easy to locate it and now I have 4 well placed fixings to attach the 2.

    Next thing was to drop in the flywheel, and check starter engagement. I looked at Y, and S starters. Neither starter suits the larger 2azfe flywheel that just fits inside the bell housing perfectly. I shaved the block to get room to slip starters in, was easy took about 15 minutes of stitch drilling, one tap with the hammer and 2 minutes with a flap disc. I think the right starter may come from an M series engine, perhaps in a cressida. The 2azfe has the same size flywheel as the V/MZ, M, and JZ motors. So therefore Im hoping the easily findable M series starter will work. It will need about 10-12 mm of spacing forwards, so I will make a thick cover plate to make it sit correctly. I can use this plate to adapt the bolt pattern if need be, but I'd rather keep it simple and use a more elegant starter if possible. Even a 4age AE92 reduction starter might suffice, its only 9:1 comp.

    Ill have to turn my ring gear around, but Id like to lighten the flywheel a bit so I might just have the clutch shop do that all at once.

    2azfe clutch disc is the same spline as the Corona W57 that I have.

    I need to find a spigot bearing, Im unsure If I need a double or single row type at this time.

    Tomorrow I'm going to the all the wreckers to find some bits to keep going on this, Id like to have a solid motor/box/clutch/flywheel/starter set up by the end of the week if all goes well.

    I have accepted that the motor will lean a few degrees left. This OK I think, I will add one oil drain, there is a perfect spot there, it will require a custom sump and an extended oil pick up, but that's pretty easy as its just a steel sheet metal sump to modify, and I can increase the capacity.






  • #22
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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  • #23
    Veteran R&D Mechanical's Avatar
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    Good to see you are still going with this! will be interesting, was thinking the other day what happened to this car lol
    R&D Mechanical, Seaford SA - please visit www.rdmechanicalshop.com
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  • #24
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Yeah hadnt done a lot really. Not besides a lot of thinking. Now I've done a bit work.

    I have a motor and box union that I'm happy with, 4 well spaced fixings.

    I now have a starter working perfect, its a hybrid between a 20v starter and a 4efe starter. I used the casting off a 4efe unit and the electrics from the 20v one, they bolt up fine, I just need to make a small cover/spacer plate to fill where I sliced the block away and pack it to the perfect spot. Currently sitting on washers. Its all been tested and works fine.

    The 2azfe clutch should work fine, the spline on the w57 matches a 2azfe clutch disc which is the same size a 1/2JZ and all the v6 motors so it should have an amazing amount of grab in this lighter chassis. The pressure plate fits in the housing. The fork is under the inlet being a Y housing. I cant see how it wont work, I just need the correct spigot bearing.

    I have filed the right relief on the ring gear teeth to make the starter mesh nicely. All 100 and something of them.

    So now the next step is to sit the thing in for a test fit, look at my shifter position vs where it sits in the bay against the firewall and see what if anything needs doing, I have the second from rear most shifter position w box. Hopefully this is what I need.

    Will have to give it a few days until Mungi brings his crane back for a test fit. One sides engine mount will be easy, the other side a bit difficult, but I'm confident in finding a solution for this. There are enough holes, they are just in some unusual places. The gearbox cross member wont be too hard, its a straight forward thing to do for a W box.

    Once its in place, Ill need an inlet manifold, I am unsure whether to fabricate an itb manifold to use AE111 throttles or make a single throttle chamber for a later boosted application. I dont know at this time, I have a week or two to decide. It all depends on whether I want to keep it NA forever or boost it. The injectors are in the head not the manifold which makes it easy. The motor leans towards the passenger/exhaust side so there is a mile of room for an inlet compared to a 20v.

    Ill put some pics up a bit later of the motor and box combo and the starter in place.






  • #25
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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  • #26
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    Just ordered an inlet flange from ross machine racing. It retains the factory o ring seal so if I boost it it will be sweet.

    Im going to make an ITB manifold to suit Blacktop quad throttles. Then I'm going to run a plenum chamber over that so I can play with happy funtime gas and most likely water meth injection. Im trying for the best of both worlds whether NA or turbo.

    I went and saw Rick Sendall about a cage today as well, he is making me the 2azfe extractors too. I left the gasket with him to cut the flange plate. I'm using a 4-2-1 design. I'm most likely going to invest in a 6 point weld in cage with bolt in 1.25 inch side intrusion bars. 1.5 inch seamless moly with a diagonal brace to the main hoop and a side to side bar under the dash. Looking at $2600 for the work. I think that's a pretty good estimate for the level of work. It will have all the paperwork issued to go through cams and I can get it blue plated for the street too. Im pretty keen to go ahead with it asap. I think he can do it in about 6-8 weeks.

    Then I'll raid some of the good bits from my current cars suspension and make some new coilovers on xt130 struts to get the bigger stub axle, as I keep flogging my front wheel bearings out with the big brakes and wheel package. I will then most likely sell the ae71 I drive now with the 20v package/adaptronic/coilovers jdm 2 way lsd kit all in it (or part it if I have to). Id like to sell it whole as the thing is mod plated for the 20v, seats, and brakes.

    That reminds me I have to have my diff mounts switched over on the F series for the rear end.






  • #27
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  • #28
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Yes I've been looking into the different performance parts for them, I guess I'll be happy when it runs for now. But down the line there are short or long blocks available presleeved and built with whatever components you would like. People have seen close to 400 fwhp from what I've read before popping a stock bottom end with boost. Its never going to make the kind of power a jz could make boosted as from the factory its a lightweight alloy block with a floating sleeve. So I figure keep it simple for now, make it as light as I can na and then look at a turbo or sc later on if need be. With 11:1 pistons installed there was a guy making around 200hp atfw with just a few minor bolt on mods (intake/exhaust) and a retune. Stock cams and all. Looking at the stock manifolds I think I can improve performance vastly for my application, with a nice set of headers and a nicely crafted inlet. As choked up as they are they are rated at 125kw and 220NM in a rav 4. Thats about the same as an ae101 4agze. This from a block that weighs no more and sits in the same spot compared with a 4age. Realistically anything north of 150 rwhp and a lot of torque would be a great starting point. Im hoping to be pleasantly surprised. I wonder what the thing would do with the same camshaft profile as a beams...






  • #29
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Been busy, needs a custom sump and oil pickup.

    It misses the steering. Might try and start mounts this weekend.

    I might look into a 1azfe lower crankcase housing and delete the balance shafts for clearance and I could sit the motor a little lower. Wont really make a lot of difference so maybe not.

    Fits sweet.






  • #30
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    Just got a flange in the post from the us of a.
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