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Thread: 2AZ powered 86

  1. #391
    Veteran drift kid's Avatar
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    Happy with the results?

    Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

  2. #392
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Drives amazing so yes. Tuner not the kind of guy who will manufacture a nice number with the settings. I have a couple of printed graphs and the afr graph shows there's still a bit left in it up top as its not as lean as it could or should be.

    Torque is through the roof everywhere, and I'm already looking for longer trumpets as that's what the 2 colours show, t3 at 70mm were the lower power figure and the custom longer Sam Q units were the more powerful ones at 96mm, and notably more powerful everywhere in the range. What a good thing to have done on pure suspicion. I'd like to try some 120 or 150 mm silver top trumpets if such a thing exists. Sam Q what can you do for me?






  3. #393
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Been enjoying the car. Doing more tidying up. Tightened the hatch fit up a lot. It was rattly. Also did the tacho mod for the ecu to fire it, just need to wire it now. Odometer is rooted and doesn't turn. A small broken bit fell out and its snapped off something in the mechanism.

    Fuel gauge has proven unreliable, but with no odometer and no fuel gauge shits not great fun with refuelling cycles. Working on both today.

    Sorted more sensible wheels out for it. Borrowed some off a mate down the road, Peter. Cheers mate. 15x7 ssr mesh.

    Put my 195s on them. They sit about 13mm a side under the arches. Flipped the cage bolts over in the rear and made it so my tyres cant clip them.

    Cleaned all around and in between everything as I was working on it, it was built in a rather dusty shed.

    At some point I will strip out the interior, fix whatever needs it and repaint all to one colour scheme, like the door cards black and grey and the multi colour thing will be over. I currently have a classy mixture of brown, black, blue, cream/olive and black grey bits.

    Need to finish the belts off with the 7 rib stuff, still can detect a faint squeak of misalignment from the belt so will just have to fit the 7 rib and refine that I think. I will fit the aluminium water pump pulley as well at the same time.







  4. #394
    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're getting there. Pity about the speedo, sounds exactly like mine, even the bung fuel gauge! My temporary fix is GPS and a 5L jerry can...

  5. #395
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Speedo is fixed, but reading 12 percentish high.

    Fitted some flush bonnet pins with keylocks. Used sika 291 to attach them.

    Ordered some regular ones for the hatch corners.

    Adjusted the hatch down further to stop rattles.

    Used sika 291 and some silver steel plates to close up the holes under the hatch top where the wires and hoses used to enter the hatch.

    Been smoothing out the tune and correcting afrs all over.

    Thinking about a full retune to really investigate the VVTI and get all the torque out of it. Currently its taking VVTI angles from timing but I don't know how ideal that is.

    Had a drive both ways from Waterworks to Samford roads, and then the other way. As for overall performance, I'm actually really thrilled with the steering feel, the grip while turning, the ability the car has with the torque to be more in control, able to tighten up the turns with the right foot or just to pick it right up out of the turns. Its a more in control experience. The more miles I do the better the brakes feel. The rotors are bedding back in nicely.

    I noticed its pretty hard on the oil so Ill look into a thermostatic cooler and that will let me fit the oil pressure sender in a better spot. I found it wasn't working great on the end of the braided hose as it was. I have removed the hose for now and am just running an ae86 oil light switch in the block at the moment.

    All the torque is messing up the shell a bit. I might end up bracing the rear 4 links or just going equal length and bracing that up. I get a few creaks from the left lower trailing arm mount. Theres even a small split in the floor. Its a bit off putting. Ill probably try to get a harness bar made soon as well just to retain the battery box properly.

    I need someone with motorsport scales to help me corner weigh it to see how it might need to be adjusted.






  6. #396
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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  7. #397
    Senior Member 4doors's Avatar
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    Cool vid. Looks very dramatic at the start when you're driving up to the strip and there's smoke everywhere...

    Are you happy with how it ran?

    What were the stats?

  8. #398
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Went well. Still not getting the line mph I want, I need more grip as it was spin or baby it away nothing in between worked.

    Best time was 15.135 at 92.26mph. With a better final drive ratio (taller) I could eliminate the last shift I think and save more time that way. Also with taller grippier tyres I could get off the line a lot harder, I was able to get better 60 foot times with the 20v car so I need to work on the grip and the starts.

    Very happy with how it ran, inlet temps were very high but the motor ran immaculately. I noticed the inlet runners and throttle bodies getting hot too so I might fit my phenolic spacers soon to cool it, plus I just started work on a glass airbox to seal in some cold air feed to the motor.

    All these 1 percent plays should add up and when I get the refinements done and attend a cooler winter meet I'm sure I can get into the 14s. Goal is 14.5 but I don't want to make massive changes to the setup to get there.

    Also looking into some more vvti tuning.

    Made my own oil pressure light as I cannot see myself noticing the gauge if something goes wrong.


    Airbox:
    You can buy this 30mm insulation foam from bunnings, I decided it would be good to make layers from it and build up an airbox shape while cutting it around all the engine bay fixtures.

    I marked out sections:


    Then layered and shaped it:





    Once I had all the layers close I contact adhesive them together with sprayable adhesive.

    Then I shaped the layers into one cohesive shape with the file and power planer.

    The idea being that I make a 3d blank of the shape, then decide how I want it to open, slice it in half, lay it flat on moulds and vac bag them into the two halves required with a flange for overlap.

    I'm considering setting a few metal pieces into the weave for my vac and idle control connections, and to attach the two halves together with bolts and Im wondering what size of inlet hose I should attach in the mould. I have a HKS mushroom pod that I will most likely use as a filter behind the headlight in its own air box and its got about a 93mm opening, and i guess you want a taper from the filter head into the box to accelerate the air, so I might use a 75mm pipe into the box for an inlet so I can have the pipe taper.






  9. #399
    Senior Member 4doors's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update. That's a very creative way to design an air box. Makes me think of how a similar process might be used when a concept car is being engineered.
    Keep up the great work. Looks like yours is the only documented running ae86 with this motor. Respect.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #400
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Thanks mate. I had a lot of people tell me I was crazy and a lot of people dis me and tell me it would not beat whatever monster car they thought they could build, but then this car exists and the ones I was supposed to be afraid of were never able to be completed.

    Im fucking stoked with it. Its an ae86 with lashings oif torque at all rpms, handles like a true ae86, runs 15s and stock rolling diameter, nice suspension, Im really very happy with it. I just need to do the airbox and finish off the tuning and make it a bit prettier.

    I will one day paint all the interior trims black. I will at the same time paint the inside of the body in the factory silver mettalic and the clear too.

    As a more immediate priority I need to paint the hatch and bonnet. I think the hatch will become silver and the bonnet will be satin black.






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