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Thread: 16v 4AGE Wax pellet Idle control valve - Experiences, woes, advice?

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    Veteran Golberg's Avatar
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    Default 16v 4AGE Wax pellet Idle control valve - Experiences, woes, advice?

    Alright, well I've owned a few 16v's and worked on plenty of others. Now anybody who knows these motors will know too well that the idle control valves can be problematic at the best of times.

    I've experienced everything from valves completely stuck open and the car having a constant idle speed of 2500rpm to vavles that "almost" work correctly.

    It would seem that the valve in my daily AE71 almost works correctly. It'll cold idle at 2000rpm then gradually come down to 1100rpm at NOT. This is with the idle screw wound completely closed.

    This is of course not correct, warm idle should be 800rpm. I've had the car this way for 2 years now, and I'm over it.

    I'm about to drop a few hundred dollars on a new valve but I have one last question for anybody that has one working correctly in a car.

    The valve is supposed to close completely yes? And such the hole in the throttle body from which it draws air will no longer be sucking air?

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    Senior Member shortround's Avatar
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    Mine was playing up so I just removed it and blocked it off.
    The engine still starts fine, and I just keep the revs up around 2000 for a minute or so.

    This will also fix your idle issue.

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    Veteran Rice86's Avatar
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    Mine does the same

    on cold start its at 2000
    then when its heated up, 1000-1100
    and sometimes hunts from rolling to stop at red lights, hunts from 500-900...then the next red light stop its normal 1000-1100 then next red light hunts again. car never stalls though and drives perfect

    its a bit annoying at times but i havn't thought anything of it until now after reading this thread
    dose

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    Veteran Rice86's Avatar
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    did that keep your idle stable and consistent after it had been warmed up?
    dose

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    Senior Member shortround's Avatar
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    Yeah once warm the idle is perfect.

    Also the adjustment screw will start working properly (ie doesn't need to be fully closed to set idle to 800)

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    I have blocked that cold start idle control off and have the idle control screw wound all the way down. After the car is warm it will idle at 850-900rpm before driving and after driving, say at a set of lights, it will usually ideal at 1000rpm.

    Once warm the valve should completely close from the diagrams I have seen. Can you feel it sucking in air once warm?

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    Senior Member shortround's Avatar
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    Sounds like you could adjust your throttle-body butterfly to be closed off more. Not sure of the name of it, but it's part of the accelerator cable mechanism on the side of the TB.

    OR you may have a small leak somewhere? Does your engine keep running if you block off the entire throttle body opening with your hand? It should stall!

    I can adjust my my idle well below 800rpm using the adjustment screw.

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    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    Yeah it does die if you block it off with your hand. Might have a crack at adjusting the butterfly valve.

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    sounds like you have a small vacuum leak somewhere lawrence.
    i didnt have a working ICV and then just had a blanking plate where it was supposed to be for a couple of years, then suddenly the idle and was all over the shop and was way down on power.
    finally worked out that my ported manifold had cracked all along the underside where it bolts to the head.

    see if you can borrow throttle body with a blanked off/non-working ICV and see if anything changes.

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    Veteran Golberg's Avatar
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    Well I've put different ISCV's on this thorttle body, but they have only been worse.

    My main question is if anybody has one which actually closes completely when hot? You can tell by seeing if the large hole inside the throttle body throat is still sucking air. Mine always is open to a degree, if I block the hole with my finger the engine only just has enough air not to stall (it will stall when cold if I block that hole) which of course make sense. So if I replace it with a brand new one, and they do normally close completely, it'll fix my problem.

    But I've never seen one working correctly to know if they close fully when hot.

    Btw, removing it is not an option. A: I like actually having a car which I can start in the morning and not sit there reving it to prevent it from stalling. B: My car has both air con and power steering, they run their idle up compensation through the idle control valve.

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