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Thread: AE86 convert ADM speedo cluster to JDM

  1. #11
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    TO REMOVE ADS, PLEASE
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    I think the chime is wired into the jdm body loom as there's no wiring in ours for it.

    Look at the back of your clusters, the green sheet circuit board thing, swap them over as the jdm one may be faulty

  • #12
    Senior Member LEVIN86's Avatar
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    Maybe theres an issue with the JDM green sheet circuit board in relation to the fuel gauge. its getting too late to work on it so ill play with it tomorrow again

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    Senior Member LEVIN86's Avatar
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    Well tried the jdm fuel gauge in my adm cluster and i was getting fuel reading, tried my bro's stock adm cluster and i was getting fuel reading...tried the jdm cluster with the adm fuel gauge and no fuel reading. I guess its the circuit board which is fault and not having any fuel readings. Time to swap over the faces to my ADM =P

  • #14
    Moderator dove grey 64's Avatar
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    take pics and do a write up, or mybe just try swapping the green circuit thing like people are saying?

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    Senior Member LEVIN86's Avatar
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    Default FUN FACT

    So heres a little interesting note i found on my adventures swapping adm to jdm stuff...so yesterday i swapped over the jdm face and needles from the jdm cluster to the adm one. When i went to test it to see if everything was working i noticed my RPM's were inaccurate (on idle it read 400 while on my hand controller it said bout 800-900). When i reved it to bout 5000 on the cluster, my hand controller read that my max rev was only bout 4300.

    The problem is now solved!! Apparently the jdm needle is a bit heavier than the adm one so it was giving inaccurate readings. I swapped in the adm needle and problem solved. I guess ill try swapping the actual jdm rpm motor device into the adm one see what happens.

    ...that is all =P

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    good work.

    I've put a JDM cluster in and worked fine for rpm in terms of accuracy. Was yours a dud? the RPM needle + circuitry would be an whole system.

  • #17
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Hi guys,

    I made a hybrid adm jdm kouki cluster, and have one curious thing. I used adm outer frame, jdm plastic green printed circuit, jdm speedo odo fuel temp and oil gauges. All works except fuel light stays on all the time, and i have the heavy needle issue described above. Very similar to whats described, tacho reading 800 when warming up at 1450 rpm actual. I can adjust my tacho to read better as I fitted a variable resistor when i did the mod so I had adjustment. The heavy needle makes it smoother. Not worried about that, but why on earth would the fuel light stay on? I might just swap it back to the adm plastic printed circuit. Thats about all I can think of that might interfere. I noticed one difference between them. There's a resistor thats not on the jdm one thats on the adm one. Maybe I need the resistor?






  • #18
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    TO REMOVE ADS, PLEASE
    REGISTER OR SIGN IN
    Ok, variable resistor could not overcome the needle weight, so I installed aussie needle, and now the tacho is good. Had a few issues where the fuel light stayed on but it was just the bulb in backwards. Noticed slight differences in the green printed circuits. Printing much the same but the kouki odometer has an extra screw in it from the circuits. Also there's an extra resistor on one circuit, where its completely missing on adm.

    So I ended up with:
    ADM ODOMETER and speedo
    JDM fuel gauge
    JDM OIL and Water
    ADM Tacho
    Just used the green printed circuit that matches the odometer.

    Fuel gauge didn't work at all with the wrong green printed circuit installed, and it meant I couldn't use the 148k odometer and am stuck using the 356k one from adm with the kouki face panels installed.

    There must be a slight difference in body wiring between kouki and adm as neither adm or jdm gauge worked unless the green printed backing had the resistor in place.

    I highly recommend installing a variable resistor on the tacho board and then you can install it with the plastic cover and speedo gauges removed, and adjust the resistor with car running to save hours of trial and error adjusting it, refitting it and putting it all back multiple times.






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