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Thread: POS Scorpion, Part II

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    Default POS Scorpion, Part II


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    Not sure if this is allowed, but the old thread was basically 16 pages of fucking nothing, so here goes.
    Old thread.

    Anyway.

    '81 Mitsubishi Scorpion.

    Engine: Rebuilt JDM 2.0L G52B, balanced everything, No.3 works copy cam, beehive valve springs, head shaved 1mm and ported, standard 2.6 carb+manifold, unknown 4-2-1 extractors, 18" hotdog, 2" back to a standard rear muffler

    Drivetrain: GE Scorpion short KM132, Daikin HD clutch, 4.667:1 diff gears

    Suspension: Chopped Falcon springs, Monroe shocks (Chrysler Centura, front), GE/GH Scorpion Lovells Low springs, Monroe shocks (rear), red poly bushes (because red goes faster )

    Brakes: Stock, new Repco pads

    Wheels: 14x6 +17 (f), 14x7 +0 , 185/65 tyres

    Interior: Momo dished tiller/HKB bosskit, Panasonic head deck, 6" Sony speakers

    Body Work: GE/GH guards/beaver panel/bonnet/indicators

    Estimated Power: I dunno. Allowing for intake restriction and drivetrain losses, maybe 100rwhp? Feels similar to a bigport KE70, has heaps more torque though.

    Pics.

    The day I bought it:



    A couple days after I got it on the road the first time:



    Interior:




    After it exploded the first time:



    Due to this:


    Back driveable:



    That lasted about a month, then there was the second engine explosion:


    Then, in went the 2L.


    Was slow as shit due to being a 1200kg car, powered by a 110hp 2L four, with a 3.308:1 final drive. So I bought these.

    4.6:1 gearset to suit Mitsu 10-bolt, from an L300 van. Goes ok now, but it's doing ~3500rpm at 100 which gets annoying.

    I bought a pair of Centrelines (from Blair on here):


    Took tyres off the Hotwires for them:



    and chucked them on the front.

    Sat like that for a while, until I decided to get off my arse and do something about the munted front guards.

    Before (with Centrelines on the front):



    After (swapped wheels around):



    Early front looks so much better IMO, just needs the bumpers to match.

    Random other pics.

    7 +0, stock rear guards. Needs a 20mm spacer or a pair of Hurricanes.


    Commodore-spec reverse rake, hektik shit der cuz.


    Gettin' arty, with my sister's 1100D.


    Domo.


    And, finally, the POS Bombadore I'm stuck driving around in. At least it's reliable, I guess.


    To Do list:
    -2L to go in- DONE.
    -4.6 rear to go in- DONE.
    -Exhaust- DONE, for now. Needs extractors and a decent 2.5" system.
    -CAI of some description- DONE.
    -Replacement non-PS steering column- DONE.
    -Bleed brakes- DONE.
    -Sort the front end out (early guards/bonnet/beaver panel)- DONE. The car is now blue, faded blue, white and weatherbeaten silver.
    -Bushes- DONE.
    -Front suspension- PENDING. Will likely shorten the stock struts and run a HSD sleeve kit+SW20 rear inserts+9kg springs.
    -Proper rear suspension- PENDING. Custom 7kg springs will be the go here, shocks might be a problem though. Double eye-mount FTL.
    -Weld diff- PENDING.
    -Rear swaybar- PENDING. These must have been a bit oversteery with one, because it's not there from factory.
    -Decent tyres- PENDING.
    -Rear wheels- PENDING. Likely end up with a pair of 14x8 -10 Hurricanes. If not, I'll buy a pair of MA61's to use as frontrunners.
    -Rego- PENDING.

    Maybe future stuff, depends on whether I keep it that long or not.

    -Basic EFI turbro G54B. Stock rebuilt shortblock with Magna flat-tops and deleted balance shafts, M7 Magna head, G52B cam, Magna injection, VR4 injectors, VG30ET turbo, steampipe manifold, 450x280x75 cooler and some form of programmable ECU.
    -If not turbo, a pair of 45DCOE's, a decent cam and 4-1 equal length headers.
    -Starion g/box conversion.
    -LSD diff swap. Looking at either R31 or F-series.
    -Wheels. Would like 14x8 front/14x9 rear MkIII's or Wata's, although I'll probably end up buying a set of those Sakura copies.


    Finally, this is where I'm drawing my inspiration from. It's a zenki, and it's on 15's, but you get the idea.



    Anyway. Gonna try and keep the waffling to a minimum this time, don't want to clutter the place up with another 16 pages of bullshitting.
    Enjoy, lads. Cheers.
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    Last edited by spiderman; 26th October 2012 at 04:24 AM.

  • #2
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    Hey, why you keeping the astron for turbos? Swap in a 4g63?

    I also noticed, you said swap in vg30et turbo. Would be way cooler swapping the whole vg30et in there.

    Scorpions ain't my thing but that silver one is pretty cool in its own way. You need a chrome bumper too.

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    One reason. A fresh injected 2.6 with a $500 set of Wiseco forgies, TS rods, a TR head, VG30 (or FC RX7, either one works) turbo, a 2L Sigma cam and aftermarket management will make 180rwkw/400Nm with ease on about 14psi, and it'll do so reliably. That's more than enough fasts for me, anything more and I'd get myself into trouble with broken diffs.
    Pretty much every entry- to mid-level turbo 2.6 in the country runs that same basic setup, sometimes with more cam, sometimes with a different turbo, but generally they're all pretty similar. So it's a proven combination.
    The setup in the OP would be good for about 150kw before you start running into broken pistons and the like, because the Magna pistons are shit. Cheap, though.
    '63 is a pain in the arse.
    Last edited by spiderman; 1st August 2011 at 08:44 AM. Reason: belated typo fix

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    63 is annoying but... yeah, you're right.

    You could probably pick up a whole turbo Z31 for like 500 bucks. bolt the vg in (with the way strong gearbox) and wire it up. Would get you the power and torque you want. I totally have a thing for vg's.

    On the other hand, a gze with a kelway manifold and a td05 or t25 will net you 150kw, maybe not with 400Nm whatever that is, I don't work in metric numbers. and gze will push to 250hp/185kw reliably enough and 300hp still really isn't a problem.

    You know you're eventually gonna want more than 150kw and since you are planning a diff swap, the diff won't be a problem then. The VG will easily do 375hp too.

    BTW I'm not trying to change your mind, just trying to think of a cheaper and more reliable conversion with room to expand. In other words, I wanna put a vg into a car but already have 2 half built motors for my 2 cars.

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    She's all good, I'm always open to suggestions

    GTE- Nearly everything would need to be custom made. That, and I think the car's probably a bit heavy for a 4A. This is a bit bigger than an xE7x/86, similar size to a xT14x Corona/xA6x Celica.
    4G63T- Swap is a pain because of the cost of the parts involved, it's no harder than a 20v swap in an 86 but everything's bloody expensive as it's not that common a swap. However, those parts are turbo-specific, an NA swap would be very affordable.
    VG30- Same deal as the 4A, custom everything. Not too keen on putting a six in this anyway.

    I'm actually considering going the NA 4G63 route. Can pick up a late 80's Galant GSR for not much, or even a 2L Sonata if having Hyundai rocker covers isn't a problem. From there it's a case of modding the thermostat housing so the outlet's not pointing at the firewall, running the plumbing, bashing the firewall for CAS clearance, swapping the TB to the other end of the intake, getting a custom set of extractors made up and wiring it, pretty simple really. No need for drivetrain upgrades (if you break a KM132 or a Scorp diff with 120 flywheel KW then you're doing something majorly wrong), better weight distribution etc.
    Wouldn't be as rapid as a boosted 2.6 but it'd probably be more fun, not being a truck engine and all. Would be a nice change, not running out of puff at 5k RPM

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    I say yes to hurricanes, as long as you run them on all 4s

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    Hurricanes are no, I'm going to buy a pair of MA61's for the front instead. Cheaper and shit.
    This should be running again by next weekend, I've since discovered that the knock in the 2.6 was my laziness in not replacing the no.2 rod coming back to bite me in the arse so I'm fixing that. New rings, bearings, gaskets etc, along with replacement rods from the Magna shortblock I stripped ages ago. So, rebuilt stock bottom end, with the head, cam, intake and exhaust from the worked 2L, probably won't make any more power but the increase in torque should be fun. Won't have to rev it as hard.
    Could possibly do flat tops while I'm at it, depending on whether the block needs boring or just a good hone. I have a set of stock bore Magna pistons that I could use, and the 2.6 block is still stock bore, so we'll see.

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    Had a Sonata 4G63 lined up for fuck all, but the dude janked me around and tried to get me to pay twice what we originally agreed on so I told him to go fuck himself.
    EFI 2.6 is go, have to source a Magna head+injection and an uncut loom and we should be good to go. Gonna make up an in tank swirl setup with the bits from a couple Magnas I have lying about out on the farm, gonna have to get the intake cut and shut as well.
    I expect to have this registered by mid July, and the EFI done by late July, early August at the latest as I want it in there and running in time for WTAC. Guess I'll have to get it engineered eventually, but I'd like to hold off and get the brakes and suspension (will be Starion vented brakes+front coilovers) done at the same time. Got until the next rego inspection anyway, unless I run across a clued up cop with a stick in his arse.
    Shit's gonna get DONE, for once.

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    Got bored and pulled the front passenger side apart today.

    Weeny brakes.


    Balljoint out.


    Baller as fuck workspace, note state of the art safety chassis stand.


    Dug this out of the boot, the old passenger balljoint :shock: Driver's side was just as fucked.


    Period 4" speaker grilles, gonna buy a decent pair of 4" speakers for the front and run these over the top.

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    Picked up a set of extractors for this, sister's boyfriend (who owns a red/white Trueno hatch with ducktail and 13x6 Hustlers) picked them up for me and sent them home with my old man last night. Cost me a grand total of $30.
    Now to dodge up a bit of pipe to attach them to my current exhaust (stock system with the front muffler removed), not ideal but it'll do until I can get a decent 2.5" system made up.

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