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Thread: luke86's Sprinter

  1. #21

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    No no no settle guys.... The coupe shell will be available but in the next coming months when Im satisfied with where the Sprinter is at.
    <img src=http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Silly-Karr/RockPaperScissors.jpg border=0 alt= />

  2. #22

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    I've been abit busy over the last few weeks and have had the time to take the engine out of the Trueno. I want to give it a good clean and replace what ever needs to be. Removing the engine was fairly easy and I did it with minimal amount of tools too. Luckily a mate has an engine crane that I've borrowed which helped massively.

    Can anyone please list some things you think I should do whilst the engines out?

    I need to work out the fueling from carby-tec to EFI so if anyone can point me in that direction I would be really thankful. I have access to the jap one but Im not sure on what I will need to convert into my Sprinter.

    Also anyone know any products besides a tub of elbow-grease to scrub up the engine/box?

    Anyways heres some action shots from the last few days.....



    <img src=http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Silly-Karr/RockPaperScissors.jpg border=0 alt= />

  3. #23
    Veteran dr1ft-pig's Avatar
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    looks the goods man, should be fun when your done with it

    i really want that coupe shell hay

    plate swap it with my adm
    MY JZX83 (clicky)
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    Quote Originally Posted by destroyer View Post
    Too bad im in the same town as dr1ft-p1g im pretty sure his mx83 is the coolest.

  4. #24
    Veteran NIZLAH's Avatar
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    best thing to clean up the box and engine I have found is a good old wire wheel on the drill/grinder... I warn you though, you may get carried away... lol
    ------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------

    BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:

  5. #25
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    best degreaser i have come across for that type of thing is made by valvoline, is in a steel tin, i think its 3 litres but dont quote me.

  6. #26
    Veteran Golberg's Avatar
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    Do your seals whilst its out.

    Gearbox front and rear seals are ridiculously easy.
    Front crank main seal can often be pretty tricky (in some instances its easier to do with the engine in car).
    Rear main is easy, may require resealing the sump though.
    Cams seals are easy too.
    Do your timing belt too whilst your at it.

    I'd recommend pulling the crank pulley off, then timing pulley (these can be stuck fast). Then remove your sump, clean the sump out of any crap which has accumulated. Remove your oil pump and push old front main seal out of it and replace, remove rear seal holder and replace seal. From then you can put your oil pump back on, and seal up your sump again and put the bottom timing pulley back on (but not the crank pulley yet). Replace your cam seals (may have to pull cams out to get them out). Slip a new timing belt and tensioner on. Put your crank pulley back on then you're good to go.

  7. #27

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    Thanks for that detailed reply there Golberg! My mechanical knowledge is quite 'limited' still so I Im not that confident in taking things to the next level just yet anyhoo but I'll definately take all that advice onboard, cheers.

    Well I got cracking very early this morning and shot down to Supercheap and got myself some wire wheels and other odds and ends. Started on the box and was really happy with the result and then I started to get carried away.

    I took off the inlet manifold and gave that a good once over then I wanted to have a go on the rocker covers but they're hard as to try and pull off.

    Can anyone help me as Im stuck. I undone the four 10mm nuts on the first cover and then tied to pry the washer underneath off but its well and truly stuck. Also when I do take them off is the gasket a metallic one or is it a rubber one?

    After Im done cleaning the engine/box I'll then start taking the rear out of the trueno. Im sure I will have a load of questions when doing the drum to disk conversion so I'll do as much research into it as possible then hit up dc when I get stuck.

    Some comparisons:








    Cheers
    Luke
    <img src=http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Silly-Karr/RockPaperScissors.jpg border=0 alt= />

  8. #28
    Veteran Golberg's Avatar
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    Those little washers under the cam cover nuts should pop out easy, not sure why you're having trouble with them.

    The actual seal on the covers is rubber.

    I would have suggested not taking the inlet manifold off, but its done now. Make sure you go out and buy brand new gaskets for both the manifold and TVIS plate. Do a VERY good job cleaning any of the old gasket off the TVIS plate, motor & manifold. Avoid having to sand, or use any mechanical tool to do that at all costs. Try to use chemical agents and rags/brushes etc.

    All those seals I suggested you replace, I did them on my first motor without ever having worked on a motor before, 0 knowledge. Have you got the 4AGE engine manual?
    It explains everything in it in great detail.

  9. #29
    Veteran NIZLAH's Avatar
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    how good are wire wheels... hehe...
    ------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------

    BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:

  10. #30

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    I asked a mate who came around about the cam covers and he said once its undone give it a tap with a rubber mallet? So I think I'll be giving that a go tommorow.

    So with the gaskets Im thinking that Supercheap should be able to get them in would I be correct?

    Come to think of it would it be safe to wire wheel the mani and TVIS plate (both sides) and then manual the head?

    And no I dont have the 4AGE manual is there anywhere I can access it or is it one of those Haynes manuals?
    <img src=http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Silly-Karr/RockPaperScissors.jpg border=0 alt= />

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