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Thread: James' Panda Levin Notchy

  1. #51
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    I haven't done anything yet, working 60+ hour weeks sucks. I did measure up and drew up some brackets to mount my harness to the parcel shelf and have it all braced, and realised my seat is now too small for me ):

  • #52
    Senior Member Course_Out's Avatar
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    I wanna see this thing on 13's!

  • #53
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    Offft! That's some hours! Sucks about the seat. Is there a workaround for it?

  • #54
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    13's will only be for the track, still got to get my hands on a set of formula ford tires first too. Hopefully I can swap with someone who's seat is too big for them, was okay when it was 80 kg's but now it's just not wide enough.

    Got all the fittings I needed yesterday, so all the p/s lines will be finished today/tomorrow then the engine can go back in and be run in. So close now!

  • #55
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    Very nice car mate...

  • #56
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    Have been doing a little more playing around with this, have finished off the P/S cooler I set up with proper fittings instead of the crappy hydraulic ones I was using to mock everything up with and some hoses from work which I don't have any photos of yet.

    Finished painting and fitted up all the accessories on the engine also so it's ready to drop in, as well as dialling in the cams again due to the thinner Toda head gasket and having had the block and head faces decked.

    I'm deleting TVIS due to the cams I'm using and the higher compression, and while I'm there I've always hated the sharp step from the two holes in the TVIS plate into the inlet port of the cylinder head so started blending them in so it's not so harsh. Only really roughed one out so far and haven't blocked off the holes for the shafts, but the photos give you a good idea how much better it will be when it's finished.



  • #57
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    I've been looking on and off for either a factory boot lip or a TRD wing, decided the TRD ones were a bit much so picked a standard one up tonight. Getting motivated again and have been working on this a bit again lately. So far this weekend/week I've finished repairing the loom, got everything I need to relocate the battery to the boot including a kill-switch inside the car from work, finished porting and blocking off the TVIS plate, made a template of where I need to brace on the parcel shelf to run my harnesses and cleaned everything left over like the fuel rail and starter motor/alternator etc.




    I also got some Supertech FA intake and exhaust valves from SamQ for a great price, and drew up some designs to make my own main cap plates (Similar to the Tomei ladder caps without the huge $$$) . All that's needed now to start assembling the built motor is valve springs, a good 42mm crank, some minor machining on the block and head and main studs. Then just an ECU and some wiring and it'll be finished.

  • #58
    Hair model Jacobxxx's Avatar
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    Damnnnnn I want a boot lip

  • #59
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    Another small update, since my coilovers are off at Shockworks getting the new valve code and I found a bunch of Nolathane bush kits I forgot I had and decided to fit them all up. Caster rod bushes, LCA inner bushes, swaybar link pin bushes and trailing arm bushes as well as a spare pair of RA40 control arms (Same as XT130/KE30 etc) that I have removed the lock stops from.

    Since I don't have a press at home, had to use the vice instead. There's a couple of small tricks I use that make it much easier when doing it this way. First I always grind a small chamfer around the end of the bush, just helps it locate and slide through the opening a bit easier and it doesn't need to be perfectly aligned.


    Secondly when pressing the bush and the outer shell in and out of the arm it's very easy to crush the two sides together. I cut these two small pieces of square tube to the same length as the inside width of the arm so you can concentrate on pushing the bush through and not worry about damaging the arm.


    Same sort of idea for pressing the new ball joints in and out, just used 2.25" exhaust tube instead. Finally I repainted the control arms and steering arms and gave everything else a good clean. Since I'll need another alignment anyway from the longer control arms I replaced the rack ends and tie rod ends at the same time. Getting very close to finished now.

  • #60
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    TO REMOVE ADS, PLEASE
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    Few more bits and pieces finished off, got the boot lip mounted and finished repairing the rear water outlet that I damaged. All the front end is back together now so just need to go pick up the dampers, drop the motor back in and then the running in begins.



    Always been my favourite bumper, it's the smallest thing but seriously can't wait to get it back on four wheels to see what it looks like considering it's all finished on the looks side of things now.



    Considering I'm going to be running 13's as track wheels and all bar one aftermarket brake kit require 14's at the least, how do you guys find the JDM brakes hold up on track? Will be using quality pads and discs. I was hoping I might get away with it if I run some ducting off the big openings in the side of the front bumper, but we'll have to wait and see. Picture below is where I was going to run them, would have to figure out what to secure the end closer to the brakes to as well.


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