View Poll Results: Should I keep the AE71 slant front, or go JDM quad lights?

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  • AE71 slant front

    5 45.45%
  • JDM Quads

    6 54.55%
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Thread: The Green Machine - AE71 4AGTE Pano Build

  1. #41
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    Cool. Keep up the good work. Keep me updated on the progress.
    Scott
    ozyvr4@optusnet.com.au.

  • #42
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Default 4 into 1 Extractor 16v / 20v flange?

    Hi again,
    I went and purchased a RWD 4 into 1 Extractor with a multifit 16v / 20v flange from Anthony at Kaizen Garage.
    In this case multi fit means doesn't fit, at least not on a blacktop 20V head.
    The flange fouled at the rear of the head, the shape is just not quite right for the water outlet.
    I had to open end the already slotted hole at the rear of the flange to make it clear the FWD water passage block off plate.
    Not a big deal really, but in my eyes it really should have fit without modification.
    SQ Engineering sorted me out with a exhaust gasket, and on she went.
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    Still a fair bit left to do, little bit more wiring for ECU, Gearbox mount and tailshaft.
    More soon, as i get to it.
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 1st September 2017 at 12:05 PM.

  • #43
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    When I installed the dash, I also fitted up a KE Conversions Hydraulic pedal box.
    I couldn't find and AE71 item, so I with 2 core deposits in hand (had a couple sitting around)
    I went and picked up modified pedal box from Jordo.
    Its the same as AE71 pedal box, lines up perfect to AE71 firewall holes, but its actually KE70 pedal box converted
    with laser cut pedal and welded/reinforced master cylinder mount, its a little bit beefier due to the conversion.
    Sorry no pictures, its already mounted well up behind the dash, but there were no
    issues installing it.
    It came with a master cylinder.
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    and as you can see, fits up and clears perfect with SQ Engineering 50mm velocity stacks.
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    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 1st September 2017 at 01:05 PM.

  • #44
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    Lookin good, keep the progress comin!
    Also comforting to see I'm not the only one to sit on a build for years on end haha.
    What length are those stacks, 50 or 70mm?

    I was wondering where the knuckles I pulled off mine came from and now I know, thanks for that! haha thought the edges on mine were a bit sharp tho so I beveled them while I was cleaning em up.


    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  • #45
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burcoty View Post
    Lookin good, keep the progress comin!
    Also comforting to see I'm not the only one to sit on a build for years on end haha.
    What length are those stacks, 50 or 70mm?
    They're 50mm size.
    Yep, those knuckles look exactly the same shape as mine.

    I installed some XT130 LCA's with brand new ball joints.
    Due to the extra 10mm length of the LCA's I needed to upgrade the tie rod ends.
    There wasn't enough adjustment in the stock Tie Rods, so I purchase some AJPS Motorsport Tie Rods with tubes.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Set the length equal side to side by eye and counting the threads and turns, and it all looks good.
    I'll get proper alignment done once she is finished.

    More to come.
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 24th October 2017 at 09:27 PM.

  • #46
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    Those tie rods look good, did you just order them from the website? I need to get a set myself for the same reason.

    One thing you might find is that, like mine, your steering rack doesn't have enough travel to fully lock one way or the other so you may need to get a lock spacer and adjust your rack ends to compensate. Mine's power steering though so may be different for standard racks. Still, it'll only take 2 seconds to lock it in both directions and make sure it has equal travel!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  • #47
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burcoty View Post
    Those tie rods look good, did you just order them from the website? I need to get a set myself for the same reason.

    One thing you might find is that, like mine, your steering rack doesn't have enough travel to fully lock one way or the other so you may need to get a lock spacer and adjust your rack ends to compensate. Mine's power steering though so may be different for standard racks. Still, it'll only take 2 seconds to lock it in both directions and make sure it has equal travel!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Tie rods are from AJPS (vendor on these forums) off the shelf.
    There is plenty of adjustment in them now, they cover from stock to 50mm extended LCA's.
    I have used these before with GE Sigma lower arms and it worked out great that time as well.
    I have used TTT knuckles/steering arms which mimic the shorter AE86 Power steering arms.
    There's no issue with lock, in fact there's a second position on the TTT knuckles for the tie rod end that would reduce the amount of turns from lock to lock even further..
    The rack is a KE70 item, its out of a DX. It was a spare I had sitting round, so I used it.

    Been doing some wiring lately, relays and small fuse box, nothing too exciting.
    Will post up more as I get it done.
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 24th October 2017 at 09:46 PM.

  • #48
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Been wiring, re doing the battery in boot and alternator from Blacktop to a KE70 4K fuse box and loom.

    Engine bay battery tray was removed already when I got the shell.
    The battery had been relocated to the boot, but all the wiring and mounting hardware was long gone.
    All that was left was plastic battery box.

    I purchased some 25mm2 welding cable to use as the positive cable run, a 150amp re-settable circuit breaker, some crimp end terminals, and a narva 12" battery tray.
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    I haven't finished the battery mounting, its temporary, I have just mocked it up so that I can get some power happening to finish off wiring up the ECU. The wiring runs through cab through to passenger side grommet then through engine bay to starter motor terminal. I have to cut 5mm off either side on the battery tray to get it to fit in the plastic battery box. This is to fasten the battery to the car so that it doesn't move around.

    With the Alternator I figured I had 2 options here.
    Run the standard 4K Alternator charge wire with AE111 Alternator and hope for the best
    Or
    Upgrade

    Below is picture of Blacktop stock charge wiring.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Toyota has used twin 6mm(I think) and i believe the Alternator amp output is 70amp(quick google search said this).

    This is a picture of stock KE70 engine bay mounted fuse box
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here you can see where the stock KE70 Alternator charge wiring is crimp joined to main battery terminal wiring.
    I believe the stock 4K Alternator charge wire is only single 6mm and is rated at 40amp.

    I don't want to run 70amp through the stock 40Amp wiring.....

    I'll just terminated the factory Toyota 4K Alternator wiring run, clean it up, and with whats left, connect to +battery terminal. (in my case, the starter motor +ve terminal)
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    Just airing on the side of caution, like it all comes form the same place, the battery, but seems more logical (and safer) to do it this way, rather than run risk of cooking something.....

    Wire is 25mm2 welding cable that I had left over from relocating battery to the boot.
    It looks like overkill, but that's because its double sheathed, its actually only ~3 gauge wire.
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    Fuse is 100amp ANL type.
    To mount the fuse, just used an existing speed hole in chassis rail (the engine bay, and chassis rail has multiple holes drilled all over the shop) so just nut-certed it, and drilled out the front one, did the same and sprayed tectile in rail and on hole to prevent rusting.

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    More soon
    Last edited by Futo_gt86; 25th January 2018 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Pictures not working

  • #49
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Default It has power.

    Little bit of an update.
    I finally got the wiring (engine bay and cabin) to a point where I could test it.
    It was a F'yeah moment when I turned the key and the dash lights came up.
    The indicator stalk, park lights, head lights high / low beams and tail lights all working the way they should.
    Microtech powered up also.
    No smoke, or burning plastic smell, so pretty pleased with it all.

    I cleaned up the alternator, and the fusebox wiring.
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    Cut down the battery tray, so it fits inside battery box.
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    Ordered all of my fuel system parts. Got the pump, pre pump filter and a few of fittings, just waiting on the majority of the fittings and the post pump 10 micron filter to show up
    Walbro 155LPH, gravity feed from "sumped" fuel tank.
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    5m of stainless braided 8an fuel line.
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    Aeroflow 30 micron pre filter with male 8an fittings
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    This is all for my fuel feed up to the rail.
    Previously the car had a 1/2" fuel system for 4AGTE 20V setup.
    I could have easily used 6an, but went 8an instead in case I want to go turbo later on.

    And this is where i'm at now.
    Got to finish off fuel system, get a tailshaft made and the exhaust from the header back...
    More to come.

  • #50
    Senior Member Futo_gt86's Avatar
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    Fuel system is done.
    ECU wiring is completed.
    Tried to start it and it kept back firing out no. 4 ITB.
    Checked everything, firing order was correct...scratched my head...
    Went into Microtech ECU went through the screens looking or answers.
    Found that is was set to 6 Cylinder config. changed that to 4cyl.
    Found T gap (mazda rotary only setting) map had values...zero's them all out.
    Went to Dwell settings for coils, was set to 3.50ms which is good for stock or Bosch coils.
    Changed that to 2.50ms for COP's.
    Turned key, and first kick she started.

    Super stocked, its a good feeling.
    Still got more to do.
    Will update when I can.

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