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Thread: Steering issues! Bump steer etc!!! Advice?!

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    Senior Member Ade_Mc's Avatar
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    Default Steering issues! Bump steer etc!!! Advice?!


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    Ok so over the last 6month the bump steer in my Hachi has got progressively worse, to the point it's scary at higher speeds( sharp turns the car will pull violently like a $5 hooker). And when I turn in hard and return the steering on corner exit there is a big clunk! I have had a look under the car and nothing looks broken or out of whack ( i will get my mech to check and get a wheel alignment). So I'm thinking of upgrading some steering parts.

    My question is what are the parts i need to try and combat this violent bump steer?

    What I am running so far:-
    -Corona LCA
    -Power steering arms
    -RA outer tie rod ends
    -RCA spacers
    -2inch lower 6kg spring (I think, could be harder)
    -KYB yellow shocks
    -urethane rack bushes.

    Going to upgrade/purchase:-
    -outer tie rods (read that I should use power steer ones because I'm using PS arms)
    -hardened inner tie rods (PS or non PS?)
    -castor rods
    -adj camber tops
    - front lower radius rod tie bar

    Too much? Anything missing or more importantly anything that I should address first?

    Any advice would be great.

    -Ade Mc-

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    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    I seriously doubt it's any big problem but what about the ball joint in the lower control arms? I didn't see it in your list.

    Also what type of RCA's do you have there?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

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    Gone
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    It sounds like you need to do a few checks.

    Check your bushes - mainly LCA and steering rack
    If they are flogged replace them with super pro.

    How low is your car and how tall are your RCA's?
    A quick check of the LCA angle will tell you if the RCA's are tall enough..
    The LCA should angle downward from the cross member toward the hub.
    If it is horizontal or close to it you need taller RCA's.
    I just looked at your picture and your car is not low so this should not be an issue.

    Regarding outer tie rods - if the ones you are using give you enough adjustment to get the requires foot settings safely, they do not need to be changed. If the outer joint is shagged, replace them, would have to be absolutely stuffed and clinking pretty bad to assist an issue that your describing.

    Hardened inner tie rods

    If they are bent or your continuously bending them or the joints at the end are flogged then you can replace them, but again not an issue unless they are visually bent.
    Use a straight edge to check.

    Castor rods - if they are stock, replacing them or having more thread cut in the stock rods is a good upgrade. But again, unless the bush's are flogged or the arms are bent, not an issue.

    Adjustable camber plates- do you need more camber? If not again, not an issue .

    Radius rod tie bar - will tighten up the front a little - but to be honest I don't knows many guys that run them.. Not really needed.

    Check for movement everywhere to be safe, check coilover not bent
    Last edited by sundee; 11th December 2012 at 04:49 PM.

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    Senior Member Ade_Mc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sundee View Post
    It sounds like you need to do a few checks.

    Check your bushes - mainly LCA and steering rack
    If they are flogged replace them with super pro.

    How low is your car and how tall are your RCA's?
    A quick check of the LCA angle will tell you if the RCA's are tall enough..
    The LCA should angle downward from the cross member toward the hub.
    If it is horizontal or close to it you need taller RCA's.
    I just looked at your picture and your car is not low so this should not be an issue.

    Regarding outer tie rods - if the ones you are using give you enough adjustment to get the requires foot settings safely, they do not need to be changed. If the outer joint is shagged, replace them, would have to be absolutely stuffed and clinking pretty bad to assist an issue that your describing.

    Hardened inner tie rods

    If they are bent or your continuously bending them or the joints at the end are flogged then you can replace them, but again not an issue unless they are visually bent.
    Use a straight edge to check.

    Castor rods - if they are stock, replacing them or having more thread cut in the stock rods is a good upgrade. But again, unless the bush's are flogged or the arms are bent, not an issue.

    Adjustable camber plates- do you need more camber? If not again, not an issue .

    Radius rod tie bar - will tighten up the front a little - but to be honest I don't knows by guys that run them.. Not really needed.

    Check for movement everywhere to be safe, check coilover not bent
    Many thanks for the extensive reply.

    The RCA's are blue (possibly cusco or knock offs) and are roughly 30mm+ from memory.
    the LCA bushes were fresh super pro's. Rack bushes are also super pros put in 3yrs ago.
    i will have an extensive check tomorrow when i buy a new jack.
    I have a pair of cusco camber tops, but need top hats and a bigger gland nuts in order to fit over the KYB shock thread.
    But the reasoning for wanting to put the camber tops is to dial out less camber as my front tyres are wearing out way to quickly on the inside.
    the struts are standard.
    AE86....robbing me! check the build.
    http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...read.php?t=445

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    Veteran Rice86's Avatar
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    check all bolts and all things that should be tight ARE tight and not loose which can cause movement while turning.

    wheels alignment is off?

    could be your KYB shocks wearing out with the 6kg spring rate..
    dose

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    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    RCA's would be fine, you cars sits well and mine is a little lower with T3 33mm RCA's and handles fine.

    I'd make sure the rack has no play, they can make a lot of noise inside the cabin than out. Too much toe out can also cause excessive wear.

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    Senior Member Ade_Mc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rice86 View Post
    check all bolts and all things that should be tight ARE tight and not loose which can cause movement while turning.

    wheels alignment is off?

    could be your KYB shocks wearing out with the 6kg spring rate..
    Yeah the Shocks are too soft for the spring rate, bottoms out frequently.
    Any suggestions on a good set of shocks? last wheel alignment was 2 years ago, i will book one in next week.

    Quote Originally Posted by timbo View Post
    RCA's would be fine, you cars sits well and mine is a little lower with T3 33mm RCA's and handles fine.

    I'd make sure the rack has no play, they can make a lot of noise inside the cabin than out. Too much toe out can also cause excessive wear.
    Yeah the rack can makes a suprisingly loud noise when in the cabin!

    Thanks for the advice guys!
    AE86....robbing me! check the build.
    http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...read.php?t=445

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    Veteran willa's Avatar
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    Fwiw i recently dialed my shocks to the softest setting at the track. Car was an absolute bag of dicks to drive, and definitely was almost ripping the wheel from me.

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    Senior Member Hen may possibly be a nut's Avatar
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    Jack up the front end and check for play in EVERYTHING. Given that it's been getting worse, I'd suggest it's not a setup issue (RCAs too low/LCAs too long/etc) but a wear issue (your tie rods are screwed or you rack is loose and bouncing round).

    An hour under the front inspecting and wobbling everything should hopefully find your problem.

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    Senior Member Ade_Mc's Avatar
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    After checking the whole front end, I found that all the the joints where good, but when I giggled the right strut by holding the disc there was some excessive play.

    It seems to be coming from the inner tie rod. Is there a special tool to remove this?

    As I tied to put a lock spacer on the passenger side of the rack years ago, but could not get it off!

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