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Thread: 4age Break in

  1. #1
    Senior Member pauliee's Avatar
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    Default 4age Break in


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    Hey there guys,

    have just rebuild my smallport 4age- Hone, rings, bearings, etc etc.
    Before I get it running, I wanted to know the process of running in the motor. Have done a fair amount of reading, and theres plenty of differing opinions, so thought it would be good to hear from some guys of here.

    Also, I've been told to use full mineral oil. What should I be looking at? Read somewhere 5w-20/5w-30 or so is recommended for rebuilt 4age motors?

    thanks.

  • #2
    Noooob
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    Running in an engine

    #1 - Make sure you have oil pressure , first turn the engine over by hand and then use the starter motor to gain this (disconnect fuel pump relay or take injector connectors off)
    #2 - Once you have oil pressure , start the car to ensure there are no oil leaks or coolant leaks
    #3 - Rev the car at idle for a bit , varying the revs constantly up to 3k
    #4 - Go for a drive, load it up by going up / down hills and don't baby it

    Agree on the mineral oils for the first 1k. The quickest way to start an argument around mechanics is to ask how to run in an engine usually, as everyone has differing opinions about what works and what doesn't. But keep the revs relatively low for the first 1000kms.
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    Senior Member davidgarratt's Avatar
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    Go a strait 30w base oil like mono 30 or similar

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    Veteran Skylar's Avatar
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    I suppose "running in oil" would be a good choice for the first fill. Problem is the left over amount just sits on the shelf for years.

    There was a decent thread about this years ago. I can't be bothered digging it up since I'm on iPod.

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    Senior Member Prime86's Avatar
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    Hey Paul

    Matt is right on many points and about how a mechanic will tell you how to break in an engine...Lol.

    1...Remove the coil lead and rocker covers, wind the engine over on the starter till you see oil up on the top end over the cams etc.
    2...Put the covers etc back on and go for a start if oil is all good up top. Use the dash gauge if you don't have mechanical gauge to confirm oil pressure by some means. Shut engine down and check fluid levels.
    3...Once the engine has fired and running would pay to check the timing with a timing light etc and give it a few small revs to see if it picks up revs quick or really sluggish a sign the timing is out.
    4...If it seems all good allow engine to reach operational temp to make sure the thermostat opens etc you have no oil or water leaks.
    5...If all is good and your happy with it take it for a drive, go easy on it for the first 10kms or so checking for any noises and no fluids leaking. After that mate I would drive it as normal, give it some stick back off let it cool a little and into it again. Don't baby it at all accept for that first 10kms just to make sure it's all good. Load the engine as much as possible to help bed it in.

    As for oil choice don't use mineral oil, running in oil or a mono weight oil. Buy a good quality synthetic oil (I use Motul 300V). These days your top rings etc will be chrome you won't be using cast which you use mineral oil to help with the bedding in process. You want to use a good quality oil as not to damage the valve train and drive it as normal.

    This is just my opinion sure there's plenty more its a personal choice of course but you won't have any probs running it in as suggested.

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    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    Change your filter after the 1k mark, not sure if I read it above. I'm sure I changed mine again at either 3-4k.

    I ran mine in with heavy loading up hills, a trip to Toowoomba did the job. You'll know when the rings start to bed in (not such an oily smell) and then I just started driving it hard. After 18mths and who knows how many k's, I haven't had a single problem with my smallport.

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    Veteran Skylar's Avatar
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    Running in a 4age

    Breaking in a 4age

    Here's some previous threads.

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    Moderator dove grey 64's Avatar
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    My mate who is a engine builder says the same thing, no need to baby it for ages, 10k's and thrash it. Change oil and filter then good to go. If it was well built you shouldn't have any issues
    Last edited by dove grey 64; 26th December 2012 at 01:02 PM. Reason: fixing auto correct on "smart" phone...stupid shit

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    Senior Member Prime86's Avatar
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    Yeah changing the filter at 1k is a good idea for piece of mind. If you do make sure you tip the oil into a clean container so you can check for any metal etc.

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    I remember selling a reco gem engine and the mechanic told me he wanted a 10w 30 for it and I said go a mono 30 , he laughed at me then an hour after I sent it he called and said it was smoking really bad. I sent down mono 30 and some new plugs and he ran that for 500ks then switched to his 10w 30 (still going strong ). End of the day oil will get past the rings because they haven't bedside in properly and same go's for bearing

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