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Thread: Toe in and caster for drift setup

  1. #1
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    Default Toe in and caster for drift setup

    Any one know what toe in and caster should run for drift set up thanks

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    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    Everyone will have different setups for different driving styles, comes down to personal preference. I use 4.5 degrees of castor, 1mm total toe in and 3 degrees negative camber and find that works for me. Go out driving and change the amount of castor/toe/camber you have and see how it feels.

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    Senior Member 85Kai's Avatar
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    In Japan, my car ran 0 toe but some guys ran toe out. As James said, everyone will have a different set up. It's all about testing to see what suits your driving.

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    Site Supporter matt99's Avatar
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    Never heard of anyone running toe in up front on a drift set up, I run 2mm total toe out. 6.4 degrees caster, -3.5 degrees camber.

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    Senior Member Sprinter86's Avatar
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    Also never heard of toe in being used for drift setup. I run 7.5 deg castor, 4deg camber and 4mm toe out.

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    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    I'm still using p/s arms, so a little bit of toe in I find helps when i'm closer to full lock and getting rid of some of the toe out from the ackerman angle if that makes sense? My car is a daily though.

  7. #7
    Veteran Rice86's Avatar
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    toe out helps with quick steering correction, good for learners, but 0 toe is overall a better feel as its not twitchy when you straighten up..again personal preferences.

    camber is camber, set it to make the most use of your tyres

    Caster helps with counter steer/centering your steering.

    its a lot more technical then stated above but that's a basic run down of how it can help you with drifting.

    as said, best to go drift and play with settings to see how it matches to your driving style. There is just no one magic wheel alignment setting otherwise i'll be too easy lol
    dose

  8. #8
    Senior Member Sprinter86's Avatar
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    damn, i have learner toe!!

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    I used to run 3mm toe out, 3 deg camber and 2.5deg castor but that's all I could get out of my std castor bars, only did wheel alignment once and then never touched it, ran up ripple strips and found a bent tie rod end when I pulled car apart so who knows what it was at, but still felt good to drive.

    Not sure what to run with new setup but as said I'll have to just change it around, I think someone on here said he changes things at track a little like half a turn on tie rods and whatnot and then bring it in for wheel alignment and see what the settings are.

    Obviously have to have a base setting but go from there.
    "Not all commodore drivers are wankers, but all wankers drive commodores"

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    -2.6 degrees camber
    2mm toe out
    3.5 degrees castor. max'd out RT142 rods

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