It pains me to do this, but here we go

Story about the motor:

Bought a JZZ30 soarer driving shell off some bloke. Car was originally side-swiped then sold as a write-off or something. Had no interior or anything when I got it. I took motor and box and associated goodies and pretty much gave the rest away.

Motor had 14x,xxxkm. This was said by seller, the 'next service' sticker on windscreen was due in a few thou. Motor seems to have done the 100k service, sticker on timing belt cover saying it had been done at 10x,xxx. When I had the motor out, I pulled the gearbox and did the rear main seal + swapped to front sump using proper toyota FIPG goo (50 a tube of fipg and 80 for the seal). Ran perfectly cold start, hot start etc while having it in the JZZ30.


Despite how it looks, the cressy body has had the rust cut and replaced with sheet metal (underneath was hit with grinder, then converter, then grinder, then etch primer then clear), a few spots left but will certainly do them for the buyer if they want the whole car. Underbody is rust free, most 90's imports are far far far worse. Cressy was super comfortable to drive before I parked it.


Aircon will be fairly simple to set up, as will the power steering. I've had one of the lines for a/c customized to fit and only one fitting need be changed before the whole system will bolt up as it should. P/S is pretty simple as it uses a box rather than a rack to steer.

The motor is mounted in properly, the gearbox is mounted and attached to shifter linkage. JZZ30 fuel pump and baffle tank has been installed in the cressida fuel tank too. All that's required to get it to drive is as follows:

-change tailshaft yoke for the soarer one and shorten shaft few inches
-wire up a main relay (have the soarer fuse-box and that whole loom)
-wire up ignition to the IG-SW pin in ECU and the starter
-the other 5 or so ECU wires required for any 1jz swap
-wire the JZZ30 fuel pump ECU in (have it, it works. Or you could do a dodgy and bypass it completely, which also works. Few other options available too)
-buy about 20cm of fuel line
-make some simple steel brackets for the soarer rad and bolt in place

Then all that would be left is the exhaust, and some kind of FMIC or SMIC. Windscreen will need to be sealed back in place too.


I have all the bits for the old car. If for some reason you wanted to put a knocking 4M back in, you could do just that. Absolutely all the chrome is there too.

REGO! wooo. easy to do as S.A. has walk-in rego. So if you're interstate I could rego and then you could come get it (or if you're in melbourne I can bring it over for a small fee as I need to pick a car up from thataways).


I think that's about everything.

REASON:
Absolutely no garage space, and have put a deposit down on a new car that was too good to miss, so cutting my losses here. Would have loved to finish it and sell the S13 instead, but then I'd have no running cars.

PRICE:
$2,000 without wheels as pictured (will include some 14x6 gold meshies).
$3,200 with wheels as pictured (Hayashi TRV and SSR MK2. 14x7 +2 and 14x8 -12. Tires have been rolled up the driveway and back down, so no use).

I need to sell so if you're interested just contact and hopefully we can work something out. I think 2k for something with a 1jz that can have rego straight away is quite fair. Making big losses at these prices already but if you're cruel and heartless, lowball me and we might make it work.

Pix.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8...aa9645f7_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8463/8...4424802f_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8358/8...52fa15d6_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8...00a21bb5_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8471/8...d2fa78d6_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8362/8...9cd93f6f_b.jpg

Things like trim, bumpers and lights weren't securely in place, so rear bumper is a bit loose. Just for photos. Heaps of trim isn't on in photos like around the doors, around the rear number plate, windscreen trim.

PM is preferred, or post here with questions. Phone is currently M.I.A.