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Thread: 20v blacktop, grind block to fit RWD rear pump housing

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    Default 20v blacktop, grind block to fit RWD rear pump housing


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    Hi

    Does anyone have a picture of where the block (mentioned in topic title) needs grinding to fit the 4age rwd water pump housing?
    I`ve test fitted the RWD rear and front housing on the engine and I did not spot any issues, but as my mechanic mentioned it will seem to be alright but will actually leak a little, which, considering its placed so close to the timing pulley, is a chance and risk not worth taking..

    Gone through the usual google searches, one forum which mentioned that the block needed grinding had no picture available (Probably the picture upload site has been loong defunct!)

    A pictured pointer from a kind soul would be highly appreciated

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    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    Tore! I have not seen you on here for some time, I have that photo but I can't find it, I will take a new one for you. However you would know quickly if it didn't work because your pump would not bolt on
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    here

    it's the round tab directly above the 4, if my vague memory serves me correctly the top of this tab just above the thread needs to be rounded off a little.
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Sam! As always you`re the life-saver!!

    I know exactly where you mean, I was thinking it looked a little cramped there, and it will probably need a bit of grinding/filing!

    I already had to grind and file the front waterpump quite a bit, lots of excess material on that crashing with the tensioner wheel..
    The worst part is I have to do it again to fit the new waterpump (Need to flush the water-galleys a little because of some grinding performed at the rear of the head for a bypass plate, no biggie as I was not planning on running a more than well-used waterpump anyway..)


    Hmm, while I`m at it..
    Where could I order a shorter 3/4"16 union pipe for the oil filter?
    I need to put it directly on the block so I can flush the oil-sludge out of there before mounting filter relocation kit and oil cooler..
    Wouldnt want to have any sludge left-over in those and have that stuff recirculate through the engine, however small the amounts

    Did not do much during my "leave".
    A bit of this:
    And this:

    Which lead to other stuff which I`ll post pics of later.
    Hopefully the A/T ECU wont be as silly as the M/T ECU`s which I heard nasty rumors about..

    I also got my hands on a Tweak`d Performance engine wiring-loom, and all though it looks tidy I`m sure there will be no lack of wide assortments of problems related to getting a uncared for JDM oil-sludged engine firing up, idling and accelerating properly with a mix of new and old bits put together by a Norwegian amateur and slammed into a engine/drivetrain layout configuration it was never intended for, so more to come
    Last edited by Tore; 12th February 2013 at 01:00 PM.

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    hahaha as interesting as ever. That fitting for the block can be taken out of any single cam 4ac engine, if you can't find one let me know.
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam-Q View Post
    hahaha as interesting as ever. That fitting for the block can be taken out of any single cam 4ac engine, if you can't find one let me know.
    When you said 4ac engine, I asked my mechanic and he mentioned that thestraight-on-filter type bolts also came on certain early 83` JDM 4ag`s!
    So I had a look around my place and sure enough:


    So I put the bolt from that block onto the 20v:


    Since these engines hardly have any use for non-oil cooler sandwich in RWD format anyway (And you cant use them even with smallest oil filter as they will crash into exhaust manifold anyway), you get one carrot, you can now use the bigger oil filters off Celica`s and so forth

    Now, in case you did not know, I have a LOUSY history with main pulley bolts!

    This pesky bastard on the 16v engine that came with my car did not WANT to come off


    I`ve in fact tried for 3,5 years! Air impact tools? This bolt wouldnt have it!
    3,5 years ago the old man and I even jacked the car up and put a wrench and breaker bar on that idiot bolt, then lowered the car to try and use weight of the car to loosen the bolt..
    The adventure was short lived as my old mans "best" wrench got bent, I think that was when he didnt want much more to do with my project

    So tonight I tried a very simple old school approach:


    I put the engine block onto a gas bottle trolley, I then took two used Flywheel bolts and screwed some chain onto the back of the crank, twined the chains around the bottom of the trolley frame and secured them with.. even more chain
    And to top it off, I threw away the pathetic torque wrench you see on the picture, and used a breaker bar so big that even 5 year old`s will laugh to death..
    I also used the best quality freeze shock spray money can buy here in Norway (Borrowed from a tool salesman I know) and that shit freezes bolts & nuts down to -45 celcius degrees...
    Any colder than that and the bolt will probably crack (Neither can I afford the spray or a new bolt LOL)

    Guess what.. The #(/&"%#er did NOT budge!!
    I even had to discard the breaker bar and use the torque wrench to be able to stand on the trolley frame while lifting the wrench.. Still no go
    In fact the trolley frame got twisted and distorted from my efforts, so no problem with my body strenght or the set up per say, its just that the bolt sits THAT good!!
    Which only reaffirms my extremely bad luck with main pulley bolts, especially on this cursed engine block
    Last edited by Tore; 15th February 2013 at 09:33 AM.

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    Senior Member turn69up's Avatar
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    Its probs had a ton of threadlocker used on it, the only way is to use an oxy and heat it up

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    Quote Originally Posted by turn69up View Post
    Its probs had a ton of threadlocker used on it, the only way is to use an oxy and heat it up
    I have an oxy bottle but wont that expand the bolt and crack a perfectly working crankshaft?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tore View Post
    I have an oxy bottle but wont that expand the bolt and crack a perfectly working crankshaft?
    steel doesn't expand that much, more of a problem would be putting too much heat into the crank, at this stage it's your only option other than professional help.
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Well, getting there..


    This water outlet pipe for front-right of the head:

    didnt fit because it collides with the RWD pipes coming out the back of the waterpump housing though..


    Sad setback economically and time-wise when the project is that close to first engine start

    Edit: oops, I just remembered thats the outlet I bought from you Sam.. Sry about that but thats the way it ended up

    It turns out that the adapter plate that the outlet is screwed onto builds out too much and crashes with the heater piping coming out the RWD water pump housing..
    I dont think filing it will work, would have to grind through the allen-bolt that holds the outlet onto the adapter
    Last edited by Tore; 17th April 2013 at 03:54 AM.

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