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Thread: sr20det swap questions.

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    Default sr20det swap questions.


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    1. I have no o2 sensor because the pigtail on the one that I have is about 2 inches too short, so there are 2 options here, extend the pigtail? or extend the wiring harness? Is there a 3rd option? Is there an aftermarket o2 sensor with an abnormally long pigtail w/ the clip?

    Here is a picture of the BOSCH o2 sensor that I thought would work... Thoughts gents?

    2. I have solved the dash problem the dirty way by using the 240sx dash, the little clock on the dash is not wired into the ignition, it is straight to the battery, which means that stupid little clock is on all the time, slowly draining my battery, anyone have a way to either, wire the clock and the clock alone into the ignition? or install a battery cut-off switch to cut power from the battery to the dash. Also I have an aftermarket ignition system that has 3 toggle switches and one is unused, so I can toggle the cut off into there but that requires running battery wiring another 3 feet to and from the toggle, combine that with an already planned battery relocation to the trunk, I believe I am changing the cold cranking amps that are needed to start the car because of the resistance of the wire?? So I need to know the math behind that....

    here is a picture of the clock on...

    here is my ignition system.

    3. By using the dash from the 240sx, the fuel gauge doesn't work right, the low fuel light works, but the needle doesn't work, sooo, behold the dirtiest solution you have ever seen... the fuel gauge from the ae86... this is ugly, I am sorry to show you this,

    I inherited this problem and I am trying to make it clean and right. I want to know if there is any aftermarket solutions that you guys have used? I was thinking

    http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-D...P1876C430.aspx
    with this put in it.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-82341/overview/

    I tried to rewire to the 240sx dash, but the needle didn't move...

    Any suggestions?


    Thanks in advance for you help gents.


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    Senior Member sleeper_13's Avatar
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    You dont have to run an o2 sensor but it will run rich but you could fix that up with a tune.

    Im sure you could just cut the power wire from the back of the clock and splice a line which only turns on when the ignition is on

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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeper_13 View Post
    You dont have to run an o2 sensor but it will run rich but you could fix that up with a tune.

    Im sure you could just cut the power wire from the back of the clock and splice a line which only turns on when the ignition is on


    I could fix it with a tune...but, that would be at least 500 dollars for the engine management unit, and another 500+ for dyno time, I think I have the o2 sensor situation sorted out, a new bung welded into the downpipe should do the trick. That is a good idea on the clock, that shouldn't be much trouble.

    Now on to the 3rd problem...the fuel gauge. I figured out that the reason that my 240sx dash isn't takling to the fuel level reader is that they operate on different ohm's... I can't for the life of me find the ohm's for the ae86. Does anyone know off the top what that is?

    Thanks in advance.


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    Veteran Skylar's Avatar
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    Off the top of my head, it's 3 ohms empty, 27.5 at 1/2 and 150 full. I know the first two figures are correct. The last one, I'm not sure of but it was in the one hundreds. 120, 130 or 150.

    The clock should have a batt wire and an ign wire? One to keep the time and the other to turn the display on? Don't remember how an AE86 clock operates but most cars are like that I think.

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    Senior Member sleeper_13's Avatar
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    If youre tuner is charging $1000 for a tune youre doing it wrong!

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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeper_13 View Post
    If youre tuner is charging $1000 for a tune youre doing it wrong!
    ummmm... 500 for NisTune and 500 for dyno tuning is not that unreasonable...

    remember he is getting the daughterboard installed on the factory computer in that same transaction.

    Former Cars: 1992 300zxTT ***SOLD*** ----------------1984 Daily 20v AE86 ***PARTED OUT*** =(
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerby86 View Post
    I said it cos it is possibly one of the stupidest things I have ever read on this forum. And I remember when Klutch was on here so that is saying something!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skylar View Post
    Off the top of my head, it's 3 ohms empty, 27.5 at 1/2 and 150 full. I know the first two figures are correct. The last one, I'm not sure of but it was in the one hundreds. 120, 130 or 150.

    The clock should have a batt wire and an ign wire? One to keep the time and the other to turn the display on? Don't remember how an AE86 clock operates but most cars are like that I think.
    ...maybe? I am no good at wiring, and this isn't one of those scenario's where you learn to swim by jumping in the pool... I think I will take that part into the shop and get the clock wired into the ignition switch, leave the one to the battery for the memory...

    That sounds good for the ohms... I appreciate the help.

    Quote Originally Posted by sleeper_13 View Post
    If youre tuner is charging $1000 for a tune youre doing it wrong!
    495 for a full dyno tune... it's not highway robbery, but I will take it, the last car I had tuned has osirus uprev, and that was really expensive, so I am happy that nistune is 200 dollars less.
    Quote Originally Posted by ae8zn6 View Post
    ummmm... 500 for NisTune and 500 for dyno tuning is not that unreasonable...
    remember he is getting the daughterboard installed on the factory computer in that same transaction.
    +1, not any more unreasonable than dropping a nissan engine in a toyota chassis....

    Thanks for the help fellas.


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